Shimano wheel bearings - practical solution

How many bearings does a Shimano hub have?

Many questions are asked about freewheels at the GCN Tech Clinic. So I thought it was time we went over exactly what they are and how they work. (Hissing) (light hearted music) (various freewheels spinning) Now the purpose or job of the freewheel is not just to carry your sprockets.

In fact, it allows you to transfer the power from your legs to the rear wheel to help you move forward, and most importantly, an extra feature so that you can run free too. Which is pretty important, let's be honest, now a freewheel is not really firmly attached to the actual hub shell of your wheel. Instead, they are usually held over the axis.

So you can simply postpone or postpone it. Even if it's not always that easy. Partly that's because you can easily pull the end caps off.

With others, however, all you need to do is insert a couple of 5mm Allen wrenches or maybe a 17mm open-end wrench, loosen them, and then you can pull the freehub body off, not sure, check out the manufacturer's site because that's where you'll usually find quite extensive technical instructions. However, when removing the freewheel from the actual hub shell itself, you should make sure that you do it very slowly and usually over a surface that you are not going to lose anything. Well, pretty soon you'll see exactly why. (Freewheel spins) Now some freewheels are completely sealed and cannot be serviced or serviced in any way.

Generally these can be found on bikes like some Shimano, some older Fulcrums, or low-end Campagnolo something like that. However, in the past I actually took them off a hub, tossed them in a vat of oil for a couple of weeks, took them out again, and they worked fine. But only temporarily, if if you have one I would save myself the hassle and just buy a new one.

First, let's look at how a three- or four-pawl mechanism works. This one in this vision is a three-pawl mechanism. Here we have them, one, two and three.

Sometimes you get a four or six straight and they're just there evenly around the edges. Now these are actually being held in place here. There is a small snap ring around the edge of the actual freewheel.

If I lift this up it means I can actually take these pawls out and I can actually wait for them to remove the dirt inside. Sometimes these pawls are just held in place with little springs, tiny, tiny, little springs. This is why it is important not to lose any because they are so small you are unlikely to find them walking on your carpet or anything.

So they work by being angled to match the inside of the actual hub shell. So they're almost like a reverse angle of it, so that when they snap into place when you ride and the power that drives the hub around. And likewise, once you have the freewheel, they can actually just fold back into position and that makes the tickety-tick sound inside a hub. (ticking) Well, I'd just show this design, too.

So it's also a three-latch mechanism, but it explodes, it's nicely cut away. So we can actually show what's going on here. So we have the three latches on the freewheel here on the rear wheel and they are held in place, as I said, with tiny little springs and a retaining ring.

But interestingly, there are 12 small notches on each paw on this hub, then a ring is pressed into the actual hub housing. So it's like a drive, you almost ring the bell so that these handles sit in, and there you have 120 different points of attack. So everyone has 12, so you have 36 points that you will all wager at the same time from 120 of the small slots inside.

Compared to the 24 inside this vision, it may sound good like this is the ultimate hub. But well, you won't get any real benefit or performance gains from what it has in my opinion, listen to this sound. (Freewheel click) Pretty cool.

We make three hubs, so and test later. (Freewheel clicks) (Freewheel turns) Now the Mavic wheels work differently again. Although some of the newer ones work pretty similar to the DT Swiss but this one on this Aksium wheel, I'll take it off very carefully and you'll see why, hopefully nothing comes off.

But they work almost the opposite of the first freewheel setup we looked at, i.e. the three- or four-pawl mechanism.

So these are actually almost attached to the hub body or the axle, the hub, and with tiny springs there and those little pawls held in place, they actually snap into the slots inside the freewheel body. they work almost the other way around and then obviously when they snap into place with slots inside the freehub body, it's the spring tension of these tiny little springs that always amazes me that they can bring essentially all of the power of your legs back into place, around you to drift forward. It's amazing that. (Freewheel spins) up is a different type of ratchet mechanism.

cycling weight loss results

This can be found in DT Swiss hubs and other hubs that use their patent for it. So let's remove the end cap first. It's usually not that easy.

I just had to do a little persuasion. Then when we take the freewheel off, you will see that there are a few small jags in it. Now we have a small nib, then we have two of what DT Swiss calls star ratchets.

And while one of them is sitting here in the actual hub shell, in there. You can just see that we have some little slots there that they can fit in and also this freehub body. Then the magic really works here.

It's almost like a clutch plate, much like what you'd find in a car when you took the clutch apart. So you can see here that these star ratchets are serrated on one side and then perfectly flat on the other side. That means if one of them goes into freewheel, it has the flat part against the bearing on the inside.

First of all, you have to put a small spring in there as this actually helps in engaging and disengaging the freewheel mechanism with the actual hub body itself. Then you would string those splines together if you imagined this to be inside the hub shell. That's exactly what it does so it snaps (clicks) and loosens hub spins and that's what gives you that cool sounding noise.

One of the real advantages of this I think is that you have so many different points of contact here. Instead of having a three or four pawl mechanism where you only have these bits activated, here, well, we have 36 different points of engagement at the same time. (Click) (freewheel spins) Another setup that is pretty similar to DT Swiss's is Chris King's, which will be a familiar name to many of you out there.

Well the freewheeling style works in such a way that the more pressure or force you apply, the tighter the engagement becomes and I think there is some physics as well, which means that the greater the force transfer. Don't take this apart as it is made up of some complex pieces, but hopefully the pictures on the screen will now show exactly how it works. And it gives you a pretty cool sound as it has 72 points of engagement. (Freewheel spins) Now there are dozens and dozen different types of freewheels and we can't cover them all, but to finish with, let's touch on the axle clutch technology that can be found in some Zipp hubs.

This uses the power of magnets, that's right magnets The actual hub shell is right under that dust cap cover. We can get to a 36 teeth and ratchet mechanism. So the six magnets that fully lock into place when you apply pressure through your pedal to the freewheel and then when you are not applying pressure when you are free when turning, they loosen completely, which is right, you are essentially able to should be just a little more free-wheeling as you won't have the added resistance of pawls or ratchets locking into place as hard.

Nice little idea. (Click) (rotate various freewheels) The noise or the sound of a freewheel hub has been talked about a lot recently because people want a different sound from the standard. One of the suggestions for making a loud old click a little louder is to remove all of the lubricant and grease from these parts, as well as stretching the springs to try and make them snap into place a little faster to create that loud old sound .

And then on the other hand to calm them down, people pack them full of fat and then really compress those springs which they don't tend to. Well, put back in just as much and even remove retaining rings if you have them. Don't do this now.

The reason for this is that it could turn your bike into a solid balance bike because it doesn't have a return mechanism so you can't have a freewheel. On the other hand, they get stuck in place, which means the freewheel rotates but doesn't engage the actual hub shell to get you forward. There are some upgrades made.

As with DT Swiss, there are actually replacement ratchets. These star ratchets can be engaged with up to 54 teeth, which would give you a louder freewheel. And there are other alternatives out there.

So this is the only time I'd do it, it's always advisable to do something like this to the inside. It should be a free wheel mechanism. We are the modest freewheeler.

Part of the bike that many of us often forget, but it does a very important job. Let me know what you want Next, I'll show you how exactly it works on a bike. Because I love to go into the essentials of these components.

Do participate in the comments below. And also remember to like it and share it with your friends who want a really loud freehub to warn them of the dangers involved because Johnny Text told them to. Now, remember to visit the GCN shop at shop.globalcyclingnetwork.com here and here below.

How many ball bearings does a Shimano rear hub have?

Ten 3/16' bearings per side on the front, Nine 1/4' bearings per side on the rear.

Pot and cone bearings. Believe it or not, they are not really old, as there are many high-end wheelsets and hubs that still come with this type of bearing. Now their competitor is the cartridge chamber, once they are worn out just remove them and adjust them with a special tool.

However, the cup and cone bearings, which can be adjusted nicely and easily with some pretty simple tools, can actually be adjusted from my old wheels I had trodden around. (relaxed electronic music) How does a hub with a hub and cone then work? Well you have here, this is a cone that screws onto the axis of the hub. On the inside of the cone, you can see that you have some really polished, hardened surfaces.

If you now thread this onto the axle, it actually hits the ball bearings that are located in the hub shell. And then in the hub shell, you have a race. Well, the race is kind of an inversion of the cone.

So there is a very similar surface on the inside of the hub shell that the balls lie in between. So these ball bearings rotate around them. Now the amount of pressure or tension you put the cone on the axle determines how smoothly or how badly the wheel runs.

We will now tackle the setting of the cones. So in order to adjust and remove the play of the cones on the hub, we need a few tools. First of all, one of them, a cone wrench.

They come in different sizes depending on the size of the actual flat on your cone that you are going to adjust. And then also an adjustable wrench or wrench to actually tighten the lock nut against the cone to actually complete this adjustment. Then also a little bit of kit which I really recommend, but I appreciate the fact that not everyone out there has a vise is an axle vise that snaps into the top of your current vise setup.

The purpose behind this is that it keeps the axle nice and tight as well as not letting the wheel move so you can really adjust these cones perfectly to get them nice and smooth again. So let's grab this old bike that I've been playing around with for ages and borrowing someone and it came back, well, not very good condition, as you can see the actual axle has loosened a little here, I was told that they weren't driving it when this happened and they stashed it in their shed before returning it to me. The best way to check this without removing a wheel from a bike is with the quick release or nuts on the wheel tightened nicely and securely.

Try to actually move the wheel. If there is a knock at all, it means you will. These cones need adjustment.

Don't confuse movement in the rim with Radflex, because almost every wheel out there can move easily. It is when there is a knocking or knocking or some real stiffness or looseness down here on the actual hub itself. If you knock or play now, then stop driving for the moment as doing so could damage the hub shell and in turn make the parts completely unusable .

Because the bearings can essentially butt against the cones, and with it the hub shell, cones and well, you have to be left out of your pocket and buy a new hub. Today we're just going to remove a little play. It really doesn't matter which side you attack first, provided of course you have the same number of axes on both sides.

If you show a lot more axes on one side than the other, you'll have to attack, or sorry, adjust that side first, the side with less axis. Because ideally you want to have the same number of threads on both sides. Hence, the wheel stays the same distance from either side of your chainstays or fork blades when it's installed, so in this case they're pretty much spot on, I can see that side e has a little less threads, or maybe half a thread less than on this page.

So I'm really just wrapping these cones. So I put it in the axle vise. Now I have the wheel in there, the axle vise.

It will make this job a lot easier. When I was much younger it was quite difficult to do it without one of those vices because you would try to put it on your knees or between your legs and try and do the wrenches and ultimately things would be easy don't really work. So if you can buy one, you do.

I cannot recommend them enough. Then let's move on to the actual setting of the cone wrench, it's really flat. The reason for this is that the flats of the actual cone are, in fact, so narrow.

So you can't use a traditional wrench to get there. So I'm going to put it in there and just hold on to it. And then just place it over the locknut with your standard wrench or adjustable wrench.

And at this point you want to hold the cone spa in place, and then work the other wrench counterclockwise. They only release this as they were previously attracted to each other to keep them in place. Once you've done that you can really judge how much movement there is in there and take up essentially any slack with the cone wrench.

how to teach a kid to ride a bike

So let's just turn it around a little. And usually you can just pick up the hub and feel every movement there a little more. At this point it's almost a game, a little tighter, a little looser, tighter, looser until you find the ultimate balance, rather no friction or a little bit of friction.

The wheel turns nicely and gently If you like, just hold on to the axle and feel, because your hands can feel vibrations really very well. And when you find that sweet spot, you're going to really, really want to keep that cone precise. Just hand tighten the locknut - at this point you really don't want the cone wrench to move because if it does, all of the hard adjustment work you just did will go out of the window.

We don't want that. If this is the first time you tackle it, it may take a while to get absolutely right because these tenons only require tiny movements to get them right to extend the life of your hub , it is definitely worth investing the time in. For example, if you wanted to tackle your rear wheel and it was the drive side locknut and cone that were the problematic area, you will likely need to remove either the freewheel or the cassette in order to properly work on these components .

So keep that in mind. Now I hope to actually be able to show you a complete rebuild and a small relubrication of one of these hubs in the coming weeks project that I have running. So stay tuned.

And as always, like this article, a Sh are, a thumbs up. Share it with a buddy of yours who rolls on some of those cups and cones. Also, don't forget to check out the GCN shop below Visit shop.globalcyclingnetwork.com where we have a whole range of goodies. including, get this, a GCN pizza cutter.

How cool is that And now for another great article, how about you just click down here?

How do I know if my bike bearings are bad?

Worn out or dry bearings will feel rough, metallic and dry. Sometimes they're so dry that if you pull your finger fast across the axle you can make the axle keep spinning because there's no grease inside the bearings to slow it down.

welcome to the gcn tech clinic where we would like to answer your questions and problems in the cycling area and you can submit your questions using the hashtagaskgcntech in the comments section below on social media. So the first question of this week comes easily from the mayor or cyclist who says rims and blocks break through them as if they were made of soap, a few rain stains and whoopsi have no more breaking material hashtag costs me a fortune breakwear is one of them Things that are like a piece of string, right, some people break more and it depends on a variety of factors where you drive, the conditions you drive on, you know which roads you drive on, how clean they are to the Seasons are how well you know how good the system weight is on the bike If you ride through a lot there are a couple of things I recommend making sure everything is as clean as possible so after your rides make sure you do Rub off your rims and rub off the dirt with a cloth and also on the The brake pads themselves keep them clean, because if any dirt particles stick to them, then it can be like a kind of sandpaper they work and also be more abrasive on the rim surface and pavement probably a bike with disc brakes because it is much cheaper to repair worn discs and pads than to replace a whole wheel when the rim is worn out. The next question is from Camucho who says what if the bottom bracket makes some pretty garbage noises on me, will it stop me in the middle? it doesn't usually stop you in the middle of it.

If a bottom bracket is gone you can ride it home on it and it's usually something that shows up over time to know if your bottom bracket is gone because there is a lot of play in the bearings , it's usually something that's not just due to the noise, so when you can move your crank arm again you know you're sliding it from side to side and there is actually a bit of play that is a sign that it is This is something that should be fixed and replaced. This means you will likely need new bearings. The reason for this is that the chain set moves slightly when there is slack which can mean you can drop your chain while riding you don't want that, especially if you are off the saddle, it can be dangerous to you could fall off and your gear changes are likely well compromised too, but if it's just making noise all you may need to do is disassemble, clean and wait, re-grease and reassemble Creaking noises and making noises so it's something worth a look.

Also check that it's the bottom bracket making those noises, that obviously sounds right, but in my experience and you know all the other guys we've had bikes a lot? where we swore it was the bottom bracket that made the noise, only to find out it was the headset or the crank arm, or just another part of your bike that you didn't think of could even be a pedal axle, so Definitely diagnose the problem and check whether it is the bottom bracket Another bottom bracket question this from Brucelangsteiner he says, I have a classic steel frame that I would like to upgrade the bottom bracket and the crank setto uh shimano holotec threading in my frameis Italian this is One possibility yes there is one possibility um it is certainly now the problem is that if you have an old steel frame then it is likely that the bottom bracket will be threaded into the actual frame. Go into this frame like you would with a carbon frame would do, and the threads in the bottom bracket are Italian which is important here so has a bsabottom mount with threads on each side of the Bottom bracket opposing threads so you cannot unscrew the left side of the bottom bracket You pedal in the same way that pedals now have opposite threads on the left and right pedals Italian bottom bracket older design They have the same right-hand thread on both sides of the bottom bracket, just an older one older design but that means you can't put a different bottom bracket into this thread if you'd try that but don't worry, you can use an italian bottom bracket suitable for aholotech shimano cranksets, know this because my pinarello Equipped with one of the most modern pinorellos that come with Italian bottom brackets these days I took out my standard Shimanoholotecchain set, so let's get started with the next questions from Kevins Wedlo, who says how it's about tips for bike storage in a small apartment that is also easy commuting in and out to Pende ln relieved. This is a problem a lot of people have to grapple with on their own.

I live in an apartment and actually park my bike on the wall above the fireplace, now I've actually drilled a bracket into the wall that holds it in place really cool looking especially good if you are into bikes, it looks cool and you have a nice bike it's like a piece of art on the wall just make sure it's clean but check with your landlord to see if it is not your house or apartment before you start drilling holes in the wall you definitely do, but if you don't want to drill holes in the wall there are plenty of other options as well as hooks that you attach to the back of the doors and so that you can hang your bike on the back of a door, we have one of them in the gcn set that works really well and also makes a great touchgo stand that is like a pole that you put in between You can mount the bottom surface and the sealing surface and then tighten them with screws, and then you can simply hang bicycles on them, which is also a very decent solution if you don't want to start drilling holes in your apartments jrg 106underscore unusual name said that it is difficult to wear cycling glasses when it is dark and raining, I am blinded by the raindrops On the glasses there are tips to prevent this, as most high quality cycling glasses have a good hydrophobic coating on the glasses that should help divert rain, but even if you see a professional race where it rains, as is often the case with the classics or Perryroubaix or something like that, you will often see the pros put an end to the glasses on the back of their heads or stow them in the helmet and that's because the glasses don't have wipers, I think even with the hydrophobic coatings You still have dirt and water stuck to it which unfortunately makes seeing quite difficult. Yes there really isn't an option beyond that, if it's really bad I would probably take off your glasses, which most professionals do, but you could go with some hydrophobic ones Experimenting with Coatings on Your Glasses Try making it stain resistant but there's no reason you couldn't put something similar on your glasses and I'm going to try that out and the last question this week is from Eclipselex who says that great show always enjoyed watching and learning from her thanks man i found a pinarello 2004 wonder frame that has a semi-vertical dropout and an adjustment screw would allow it to run at a single speed without a chain tensioner hmm its hard to tell without yours semi-vertical dropout, because normally you need a horizontal dropout around a fah Riding the bike at a single speed so that you can slide the rear wheel in and out to get adequate chain tension because you don't. If the rear derailleur isn't there to generate chain tension, I've had a similar two episodes ago Question about this answered at a tech clinic, but you can try it out and see how you get by.

It will be pretty obvious if you can adjust the chain tension on the saddle, sounds like you might be able to, but if you can't and you don't want to use a chain tensioner to maintain that chain tension then the same answer applies as The best option beforehand is likely to go with an eccentric hub that creates the adequate tension so that you need an eccentric hub in your rear wheel well. That's all we have for this week and in the comments section below articles and if you want to support the channel or get a gcnapron so you can do your own maintenance and keep yourself clean, go to the gcn shop, we have loads

How many balls are in a bearing?

Place ball bearings in both cups and cover with more grease. Make sure balls are seated flat in cup. For rear hubs, the common number is 9 balls of 1/4-inch diameter per side. For front hubs, the common number is 10 balls of 3/16-inch diameter per side.

So this is the final lesson in this part of the ball bearing course. Let's recap some of the things we've learned. First, I'll do a cross-section and we can see some of the parts.

So we have our steel balls, let me hold back a moment. We have our steel balls, these other rolling elements, we have our separator / holder / cage. We have the inner ring and we have the outer ring, the inner ring, also known as the inner ring and the outer ring, also known as the outer ring, then we have a seal.

And we can convert that into a shield too, you can see here that the shield is made of metal Where on the gasket, it will most likely be rubber or Teflon. We can look at the raceways. What I'm going to do is remove the balls and remove the separator.

And now we can see the raceways. There are two Share on this career. We have the outer ring raceway and the inner ring raceway.

cool bicycle tricks

Depending on the depth of the outer ring raceway and the inner ring raceway, we now classify the bearings are either deep grooves or shallow grooves. Deep groove bearings are also known as Conrad bearings. Some people will tell you that is their name because they are concentric and are radially loaded, that's not it at all, they are actually named after Robert Conrad, now if we switch to a shield design we can see that we have this ring light shape that we can install and then we slide the second part into it until it clicks into place.

If we switch to a seal design you can see that we have a sealing surface, it actually seals here and there along this whole section. It's not shown very well on the model, but that would be the seat and sealing surface and the same here and it presses against the inner ring. This is a type of seal that presses on both rings and creates more friction and is therefore used for lower operating speeds.

Remember that we keep the lubricant in the bearing and all foreign particles, moisture, water out. Shields don't, they will trap the lubricant inside to some extent even though they don't make perfect seals. Now let's take a look at the camp while it works.

I'll remove the seal and we'll push the game. And we can see that the inner ring is rotating, along with the separator and the rolling elements. The outer ring is stationary and usually there will always be one ring that is rotating and one ring that is stationary.

In fact there will always be one ring that is stationary and there will always be one that rotates, that sometimes it is the other way around, that the outer ring rotates and the inner ring is stationary. I didn't see that, but apparently this bearing design exists. Usually, however, the inner ring rotates and the outer ring is stationary.

The main types of lubricants used in ball bearings are oil and grease, I'll remove the outer ring and I'll show you what happens to the grease, we can see the balls roll on the inner ring raceway, and how they do it when the bearing is is filled with grease, the balls will squeeze the grease against the raceway. Unfortunately I can't get a good angle here without removing the balls and separator, but the balls will push the grease against the raceway. And in doing so, they'll squeeze the oil out of the fat.

Now the fat consists mainly of oil with a thickening agent, which is often soap. So when we squeeze the grease against the raceway the oil is freed from the grease and we are lubricated that it tends to stick where we put it and that means it stays within the confines of the bearing. The disadvantage with fat is that when heated, the oil is freed from the thickener at a certain temperature and it runs out of the store.

At this point you have run out of lubrication. The friction increases, the temperature increases, the wear increases and the bearing will seize up or simply fail. Another limiting factor with grease is that if you turn the bearing at a very high speed, I can now perhaps even adjust the speed by adjusting the speed, the forces acting on the grease tend to fling the grease outwards.

People call this centrifugal force, others call it centripetal force depending on how you want to describe it, but in engineering we say that centrifugal and centrifugal force flings the fat aside. And we will end up having less lubrication on the inner parts of the bearing on the inner ring side than on the outer ring side. So both the speed and the temperature make a difference to the properties of the lubricant.

So keep that in mind. If you have a bearing that looks like this, the bearing is prelubricated. The lubricant is already in the sealed area of ​​the bearing and you can start up the bearing straight away.

When heating the bearing just be careful not to heat it so much that the oil will loosen from the grease and begin to drip from the bearing can sometimes see this even if the bearing is sealed. Not only that, but the seal itself is only rated up to a certain temperature, and especially if it is a rubber seal, it will not withstand high temperatures. And the last point I want to make here is that this type of warehouse might be single row or double row.

You will not see a ball bearing with more than two rows. So the ball bearing is different from a roller bearing where you can see more than two rows. I hope you now fully understand all the components of a ball bearing, and how they work together and how the bearing works in general.

Now let's move on to the next section of the course and we are going to talk about the second category of rolling bearings. And that category is rolling bearings. If you liked this article and would like to see more engineering tutorials then check out some of the links in the article description area.

And if you click on these links you will get a special discount for all these engineering article courses nna support the channel, then like this article or share it on social media really helps us, you can also leave a comment in the comment section. And if you have any questions just ask and I will try to answer you within 48 hours, thank you very much for your time. (Happy music)

How long do bike bearings last?

How long does a wheel bearing last? Wheel bearings have an average lifespan of 136,000 to 160,000 km (approximately 85,000 to 100,000 miles). This is only a rule of thumb though, the actual lifespan of a wheel bearing depends on the quality of the wheel bearing and the operating conditions.

Why is my back wheel wobbling?

If it's wobbling side to side, there are two problems that are possible; Your cup-and-cone bearings could be loose or your wheel could be out of true (slightly buckled.) Take your wheel off and hold the axle. Wobble it up and down a few times.

How much does it cost to replace a wheel bearing?

The Best in Auto Repair

The average cost for wheel bearing replacement is between 6 and 7. Labor costs are estimated between 7 and 8 while parts are priced at 9.

Which bearing is used for high speed?

Considerable speed/temperature improvements can also be made with double direction angular contact thrust ball bearings containing ceramic balls. This type of bearing was originally designed for very high stiffness and is used in combination with cylindrical roller bearings.

How balls are inserted in ball bearing?

The balls are inserted through the gap and then evenly distributed around the bearing assembly, causing the rings to become concentric. Assembly is completed by fitting a cage to the balls to maintain their positions relative to each other.

Do bike bearings go bad?

If they are worn or need to be replaced, they will feel rough and dry. You can often hear the ball clicking against the metal as well, especially if the grease is worn away. It is important to know when your bearings are going bad so that you can replace them or add grease to your wheel hubs.

How to service Shimano ball bearing hubs?

Ball bearing hubs can benefit from a regular overhaul. All Shimano hubs use ball bearings so we used one for our tutorial. Regularly servicing ball bearing hubs will help to prolong the life-span of your hubs, especially if you regularly ride in gritty or wet conditions.

What kind of bearings do I need for Shimano rs11?

Unfortunately not, most front hubs including your RS11 use 3/16' bearings fro the front. The part you need is SJSC part number 28187. Thanks. Can I Use These With Shimano Rs81 C50 Please? These would be suitable hubs for use on your rear wheel. The front wheel would take 3/16 bearings instead. Thanks.

What kind of ball bearings do you use on a rear hub?

BALL BEARINGS SHIMANO THEY DID THE JOB, WE ARE ROLLING AGAIN. Bought at the same time as a rear hub. Seemed the sensible thing to do. There was some comfort from the fact they were Shimano branded. Shimano 1/4 Inch Ball Bearings. These came in a small clear plastic bag with Shimano written on it.