Home > Biking > Mountain bike grips - how to decide

Mountain bike grips - how to decide

What are the best grips for mountain biking?

These are the Best Mountain Bike Grips
  • BEST OVERALL: PNW Loam Grips.
  • BEST FOR BIG HANDS: OURY Single-Sided Lock-On V2.
  • BEST TACKY GRIP: Race Face Half Nelson.
  • BEST ENDURO GRIPS: Ergon GE1 Evo Factory.
  • BEST FOR WEIGHT WEENIES: ESI Racer's Edge.
  • BEST BUDGET: Bontrager XR Trail Comp.
  • BEST FOR ALL-DAY RIDES: Ergon GA3.
28 мая 2021 г.





Welcome back everyone. Thank you for accompanying me on this wonderful day here in summer. Now I'm cruising around outside, taking it easy, just enjoying the scenery, really, and I thought, 'Mountain biking can be nice Sometimes an expensive game so if I want to upgrade my bike how can I do that without spending a lot of money spend? “Well, fear not, because I have some great ways you can improve your mountain bike.

One of the quickest and easiest upgrades to your bike is the handles. Now, as one of the main points of contact, and arguably the most widely used, grips coupled with pedals are something really worth taking, look at. You really want to be careful to get the most out of your grips as they can go a long way in helping the longevity of your ride.

By that I mean the fact that they can do a lot more comfortable for you. They can reduce things like arm pumps and blisters, as well as calluses and discomfort on longer trips, so really worth a look. Now we're using Ergon handles here in the Channel, which primarily focus on performance and comfort.

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As I said, the right grip is the key for you. I have fairly large palms and I find these lovely GE1 grips fit well. They are the right diameter and the softness of the rubber is perfect for my hands, plus the clamps are those wicked oil slick effects and I really like that.

Doddy actually likes a thinner grip so a different way of driving for him and one different feel as well as more feel through the handlebars and through the bike. It's really personal preference. There are of course tons of different grip tons so really take the time to see and test if you can and feel, which will be right for you.

Let's talk about saddles. Well, this is another area that is incredibly personal-preference. Mostly because you spend so much time sitting on your bum, you need to be comfortable.



Choosing the right saddle is really, really important; it can avoid a lot of inconveniences, especially on long journeys. As with the handles, it's worth taking the time to test them out if you can. Many local bike shops have demo saddles for you to try out.

Now we have another great saddle supplier on the canal in the form of Ergon. As I said, personal preference plays a big role. On my XC bike here I use the SM Pro Men.

I like the shape, I like the feel and the firmness. It just suits me and that's what I like to use. I use the same saddle on all of my bikes.



When choosing a saddle, pay attention to the shape of the saddle is something that will suit you and your sit bones. Because you will be sitting on it for so long, you must have the right and where the pressure is relieved. Often times, saddle manufacturers will offer a cheap and a more expensive version of the same saddle where something like the rails can be different.

Where there might be a singing, dancing carbon saddle, you could probably get, or usually get, the same saddle, but with aluminum rails for a lot less. Some brands like Ergon also have specific size charts so you can actually use them to find the right saddle for you Fitting system that allows you to review your riding style and seating position and that will help you choose the right saddle. Don't hesitate and start looking for the right saddle today.

Now, you might be fooled into thinking that it is only the pads on your brakes that will wear out. Unfortunately, I hate teaching you that, but it's just not true. Windows also wear out.

A good way to check this is if the disk itself is in the center of the disk, so this area is slightly concave here. There the pads touch each other first and actually wear this disc off easily. Don't fret, however.

Don't worry, if they start showing signs of wear and tear, it's time to upgrade. Flashy new rotors can be a big improvement in your disc braking performance. When it's time for those rotor upgrades, buying the right rotor is a good idea.

What I mean by that is choosing the right brake disc for your bike. My cross-country bike here now has 160 mm brake discs, front and rear. This is supposed to keep the weight down.

It has enough stopping power for this light bike and they don't get too hot so they don't get too hot I don't need ventilated brakes or anything like that. If you have a downhill bike, you could look for 200 or 203 mm brake rotors. If you have an enduro bike, a mix of 180 and 200 mm brake discs.

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If you're feeling a little wild and like a full-fledged downhiller or maybe a big e-bike, there are even 223 mm rotors, but they're a bit of a specialist. There's quite a bit of power going on there, but just check and make sure you're getting the right rotor for your bike, the quality of the rotor you get can also be changed. This will of course vary in cost, so it's worth taking a look, but Shimano's Ice-Techrotor, for example, has a layer of aluminum between two steel players and this helps dissipate the heat there if you make a lot of longer, gnarled rides live For example, you in the mountains, it might be worth considering thinking about something like this to stop the braking.

Well, not necessarily a performance upgrade for your bike, but it is definitely an upgrade that will make your riding experience easier. If you can fit more things on your bike instead of your body, then you can ride more comfortably and with less restraint - this can include your multitool, pump, spare tube, and even a snack if you have the space. Things like the Topeak Ninja are great for this.

You can use the combination of a bottle cage and a multitool to have everything neatly stowed away on the bike. Other things like the OneUp EDC, which stows neatly in the steerer tube, are really elegant ways to hide tools. What's the cheapest way to improve your braking behavior, I hear you ask? Well, look no further, because I have the answer for you.

Ta-da. Yes, the modest brake pad. Now I often hear and see people walking on trails and trail centers screeching, unable to stop properly and wondering what the problem is with their brakes? Well, 9 out of 10, it's your brake pads.

Either they are very worn, just absolutely almost to the metal, or they are the wrong rubbers for the wrong scenario or conditions. When it comes to replacing brake pads, we often recommend sticking with the brand SRAM guides or Shimano XTs are available from the manufacturer's pads. These are often designed in such a way that they harmonize best with the disc and the brake calipers.

Of course there are also different versions. For example, here I have some Shimano XT4 pot rubbers, but you can get these with the fins. This helps keep them cooler, less brake fade and more reliability working overtime.

However, this is not always true and brands like Trickstuff make really great high quality aftermarket pads that are very, very good. Tubeless valves are a real budget upgrade. Nice tubeless valves can make some messy jobs a lot easier.

You can customize your bike with different colors and some even have built-in valve tools to help you put in the tubeless sealant. This is definitely a cheap upgrade and one that cannot be overlooked. Let's talk about tires.

Well, there is almost always something when you switch to new tires. Don't worry, they don't have to cost you the world. Again, different brands will offer different versions of their tires.

Like the Vittoria Graphene here, everyone is singing, everyone is dancing Trail One, there are slightly cheaper versions. Here, too, it can change whether you ride with tubes or tubeless, so that there is really always a tire that suits you. Make Sure You Pick the Right Tire for the Conditions If you live in the middle of the Arizona desert, then a dry, fast rolling tire is likely the one for you.

If you're in the UK like us, you spend most of your time bog snorkeling and need something a bit more aggressive than a slightly more gnarled tire is likely to be. We shot a really detailed article of which tire works best in which conditions and which one suits you best. If you want to check that, the link is in the description.

Just click down there, give it a click and it will take you there. Essentially, however, it is not worth saving money in an area such as tires. If you can afford a slightly better tire, I would highly recommend it.

In essence, it's the right thing that hits the ground, it's worth getting it as best you can. Thank you all for watching then. I hope I have been able to impart some inexpensive wisdom to you on how to upgrade your trusty steed without tasting the world.

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Now, as always, if you want to see more GMBN, don't forget to subscribe below. If you want to look as bright and fresh as this t-shirt on me then our new adventure t-shirt range is also live on the website now. Just go to the shop and you will be able to find one of these nasty ones Guys, thanks for watching and see you next time.

How do I choose mountain bike grips?

Riders looking for relief for their hands should go with softer grips; riders in search of a more reactive feel from their bikes should go with harder grips. Tacky grips work best with thin, tight-fitting gloves or for gloveless riders.30 дек. 2019 г.

Are all MTB grips the same size?

However there are a number of variations on this very simple theme. Plain-gauge grips are the same thickness for their entire length, while others have a palm bulge in the middle that some riders may find more comfortable, or inter-finger bulges.5 сент. 2020 г.

Today we're going to blow up some technical terms and we're in the workshop for common mountain bike terms. The first point I want to talk about is the geometry, and it really comes down to how this frame is constructed and what it can do to do. For me there are four key areas.

So the wheelbase, the bottom bracket height, the effective top tube length and then the head angle. Suspension travel refers to the amount the bike actually moves due to its suspension. You get bikes that range from 100 to 200 millimeters, depending on the discipline.

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The swingarm is a structural part of the bike that allows the full suspension bike to easily move through its suspension travel with small bearings, the suspension units of the bike, you can find some clickers and these really just adjust the suspension unit. Things like the speed at which that travel returns, or even just locking the suspension or changing the travel is something you will find on most bikes and it's usually a lever like this one that you can actually use to lock that suspension, and what I mean by that is you just remove each pedal bob and make the suspension completely firm when riding over slippery surfaces or even on the road on your mountain bike so just pedaling is super efficient. 'K clip-in pedals are therefore designed for maximum efficiency.

Now the rider is actually clipped onto the bike. As you can see, it can't pull the shoe up, but with a slight twist it will come off. What you need is a very special shoe that has this cleat right here and that clicks onto the pedal itself, holds you in place, and gives you maximum pedaling efficiency for going up and down hills.

Flat pedals are completely opposite the clips in the sense that they are not clipped in any way. It's a platform pedal. You rest your foot on top and those pins are on the edge.

These actually actually give you a grip, but they can be really nasty on your shins. And the best part is that you can use these with almost any type of shoe. The dropper post has been a revelation in mountain bike design over the past few years, and so you can climb your seat up to the top position, come up when you are about to dismount, sit in the saddle and it will sink back to the descending height.

It makes it so easy, a quick adjustment via this hydraulic support and a rope operated lever up on the handlebar. Lock-on grips are grips that screw directly onto the handlebars via a clamp and a small Allen screw. Gone are the days when where grips move like a motorcycle gas pedal when wet.

Riser handlebars differ from the traditional flat handlebars you may have seen in early generations of mountain bikes. They have a slight incline just to change your body position, and they range from 10 millimeters to someone who is 50 years old depending on your mountain biking discipline. A long-range Kass ette, this part is right here, and You can actually see that it is massive.

It's almost the same size as my disc brake. This really allows the rider to have a single chainring up front, but still have a huge range of gears to climb up. This ranges from 10 teeth to 42 teeth, some even as large as 50 teeth.

Now you compare that to a road cassette that is absolutely tiny, you can really see that is a huge difference that allows a mountain biker to climb even the most technical trails. Jockey Wheels. These are two small wheels that sit in the rear mech are located in the cage itself, and these simply hold the chain in line with one another and keep it running smoothly.

The narrow wide chainring, and while this doesn't look any different from afar, bring the camera a little closer and you can actually see each tooth getting narrow, wide, narrow, wide, all around the chainring it was really important To develop this single system, the change simply clicks into place and gives you extra security to avoid falling down. Tubeless. Exactly as it sounds, you don't have a tube in this tire.

You have a valve, a rim strip and then some latex This will give you additional puncture protection. Very similar to what you have in your car. So let's go, a mountain bike workshop jargonbused for you.

If we missed anything or you have ideas, leave it in the comments below and this could be our next jargon busting article. For more articles click Subscribe because you won't miss another one and if you just click up there you will find out more about apartments compared to Clippedalen, click below to see how to set your sag and of course there is only one thing left to do. Give this article a thumbs up.

Are thick MTB grips better?

Size matters. Choose a width and length for your hands. As a rule, we'd argue that fatter is better, but of course, if you've got small hands it might be easier to grasp a thinner grip – go and finger some at your local bike shop to get an idea.8 мар. 2018 г.

How long should MTB grips last?

Whenever all the rubber wears off the plastic lock on sleeve. Depending on the grips, every 2-3 years.15 февр. 2015 г.

What size MTB grips should I use?

Most mountain bike grips range length from 90mm up to 150mm. For bikes equipped with grip shifters, the shorty 90mm grips are generally used. Many riders prefer to slide there hands inward and outward while in different riding positions and prefer the longer 150mm length to facilitate this.19 мар. 2019 г.

How do I know my mountain bike grip size?

Grip Ergonomics

Riders with smaller hands or those who prefer a tighter wrap around the bars typically choose a smaller diameter while riders with larger hands opt for something bigger.
19 апр. 2019 г.

What size grips do I need MTB?

Grip Ergonomics

PRO's mountain bike grips come in multiple diameters sizes with 30mm and 32mm being the most common. Riders with smaller hands or those who prefer a tighter wrap around the bars typically choose a smaller diameter while riders with larger hands opt for something bigger.
19 апр. 2019 г.

What is the difference between thin and thick grips?

Ideally Lock-on. Fat grips can be tempting but in my experience they end up being uncomfortable after a few miles. Thin grips don't fatigue your forearms and hands. Thinner grips also give you much better bike feel and handling.23 сент. 2015 г.

How thick are Oury grips?

Oury Lock-On | | 33.5 millimeters.14 нояб. 2019 г.

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Why do you need a grips on a mountain bike?

The best mountain bike grips allow you to ride for many hours without getting hand fatigue. As their name suggests, grips should help keep your hands on the handlebars. The best MTB grips will keep you in control when steering or carrying out other maneuvers.

What are the different types of MTB grips?

There are two types of grip. Slide on grips stay in place with friction alone or are wired on. Lock-on grips have one (single clamp) or two (double clamp) locking rings and plastic sleeves under the grip to hold them securely in place.

What are the grips on a rogue mountain bike?

The Lock-On Grip System makes sure that the grips do not slip, so you can crank on your handlebars with abandon, while the snap-on end plugs keep mud out of your handlebars. Bonus: You can personalize your grips — ODI will laser-etch up to 15 characters onto the Rogue’s clamps.

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