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Bike rebuild - how to fix

How much does it cost to rebuild a bike?

Estimating Costs

Costs for a motorcycle engine rebuild can range from ,000-7,000. The cost estimate on the lower end may or may not include the cost of replacement parts that are needed for the motorcycle engine's rebuild.
2 мар. 2010 г.





It's not often that you're lucky with something very special just hanging out by the side of the road, but I stumbled upon this bike on my way to work a few months ago with that exact sign that was right there for my harvest lies. Let's face it, then what's so special about it? Well, first of all, it's a touring bike that you don't see that much these days, we have Reynolds tubes, Mavic wheels, a Suntour groupset and the best of everything, it's free. Today we're looking at how to restore a bike that could have gone straight to the trash.

In the workshop! (jazz music) First, let's look at the frame and the fork, sure, that they are in top condition, or, well, as close as possible for a bike that is free or with a notice in front of the house, please take. Now in all seriousness, unless it's such a bike as the Colnago Master Olympic made of super steel, then if it's bent or twisted or cracked or crushed then you probably won't want the money, time, or effort to get it actually restore, unless you have a real, I don't know, some kind of attraction to it or something like that. So what are we actually going to check for? Well, make sure that the studs or wells are actually in order so they don't crack or come loose and make sure that the frame tubes are nice and round, or in any case the shape they are supposed to be, so that they are not pitted or dented, or the like.

If there is any sign of rust make sure it isn't actually going through the tubing set, a bit of surface rust that's fine. because we can get rid of that, but essentially you want to make sure that the framework is up to the task of holding and carrying your weight while you ride. Well, one very basic type of measurement that you can do to check how the frame is aligned is with a couple of strings to see the wheel away from the wheel.



So with that piece of strin if you want to wrap it around the head tube, bypassing the actual seat tube here, it goes to both sides and then onto your dropouts and you want this string to be as tight as possible. I'm not very good at tying knots, but I've got it pretty much right for my needs, but what exactly will that tell us? It will tell us how the rear of the bike aligns with the front. So what if you have a carbon frame or a carbon frame? an aluminum frame and it's out of line then it's probably best to get away from it now because that won't be reattaching very cheaply.

However, with a steel frame there are different methods of actually getting a frame back in place, but now I have this structure setup, I'm really really interested in figuring out if it's in line or not because I haven't yet checked it there and in place I got myself a handy tape measure, I'll measure how far the string is from the actual seat tube on either side, it's an inch and a half, just look on that side, also an inch and a half , I am lucky. Of course, if the framework is good and good, we need to check the rest of the components because without them you won't be doing anything very quickly anywhere, will you? So let's start with the wheels because in general they are one of the most expensive components to replace vibration, so some of them they shouldn't and they also run nice and straight and straight as they hit the sidewalls of the rims check to make sure they are nice and flat and not worn which can also be dangerous make sure none of those spokes are bent or twisted and then last the tires as this is obviously a very important part of the bike. Now you can usually see immediately if the handlebar is bent, because well, it's out of shape, let's be honest.

Now about the handlebar tab, I would actually recommend removing it completely, so you can check the handlebars for corrosion as some people out there tend to sweat a lot and it works its way through the handlebar tape onto the handlebars with pretty dire consequences including breaking the handlebars believe it or not, so make sure you don't screw this up. Take a good look at it and then give it a neat cleanse to remove any residue. Next, let's look at two of the most problematic areas on older style bikes like this one and by that I mean the bottom bracket and headset.



First with the cranks just try to move them from side to side as you can see here at least some adjustment work and then with the headset up front you want to try the same thing and rock that forward. Well, the easiest way to test that the headset is on the ground with the bike down here is to put on both brakes. this is my p method and try to move the bike back and forth.

If there is any movement in the headset area here that you would feel, believe me, then you will need to make a little tweaking later. Next check the brakes so pulling the levers make sure the actual calipers or cantilevers are doing their job properly in this case, which they all seem to do pretty well. Pretty retro and old school aren't they? these cantilevers, i like them.

Also, check the cables for any signs of any obvious fraying or cracking such as, it's not the end of the world if you need to replace them because they're pretty cheap then we'll go over the actual gear systems. So, in my case, nice and easy with this a pair of down tube shifters. I can see the mechs are fine which, well, they seem to be doing their job and as for the rear, let's check the ratchet gears are still working.



Oh, like a dream. Quality components - they w listen, they don't wear out or that's the old saying anyway. If your cables are actually snapped or stretched or something like that, there is a way to do it manually and that is by gripping, this is certainly suitable for a wired rear derailleur, grab it and just pedal and slide it over and then make sure that the spring actually returns the derailleur to its correct location.

Finally, check the chain for wear. So if you have a chain testing tool please use it. Fortunately this is on the wear indicator at 0.5, so it is certainly good for a few thousand kilometers more, I think after the state so far, it seems to have had a good innings.

But let's get to the actual fun part, (upbeat music) But what then needs my attention with this classic from the eighties? You are all fine. There is a very small kink in the rim, however, so I'm going to adjust it here with a spoke wrench just to make it a bit straighter, but luckily these cup and cone bearings are fine and that's a real relief, because sometimes this work can take a little longer than five minutes, because a bearing with cone and cone, perhaps the actual barrel of the inner shell of the hub, could also be broken away with the cone, making it useless. But I'm so lucky with this bike, I can't believe it, but I'll just turn it with the spoke wrench.

Now one area that certainly needs to be investigated is that derailleur cable. Look at it, horrible, isn't it. Frayed, nasty, it just screams at you, I want to pierce the end of your finger.

When this happens to you it's like standing on a plug or a piece of Lego, it hurts a lot and for the price of a couple of dollars, a couple of euros, a couple of pounds just replace all of the inner wires that make it will either give you better shifting or braking and it will be safer too, so I'll do just that. Now, apart from the slightly frayed or frankly dangerous inner train there, all the other trains are in pretty good shape which I am really quite surprised at, they will surely last a few months longer, but now I am going to give you a little tip to try to brake a bit more smoothly too, shifting gears and it's the only time I ever advise working on a bike upside down, or certainly not in an upright position. The reason is that you put a few drops of your lubricant, such as chain lubricant, on the inner cable and allow it to work down into the outer cable, basically gravity is going to do the job for you here, so leave a few Soak in minutes and you should feel some gentler braking, I love smooth braking and gear changes I'm almost blessed to find this bike and most importantly the fact that this headset doesn't require any attention.

These older style headsets have been known to get pitted, loose, awful, jerky, anything like that, or certainly not been cared for. Wonder why the previous owner of this bike only gave it away when it's in pretty good shape to be honest. Now if you've found one of these and it's not in good condition, of course, first take it apart with your headset wrench and see the inside of the race here, so when I say inspect, make sure there are no holes in them , they are not damaged, these are the most common things.

If so, I wouldn't go to the trouble of installing new bearings or new grease. Instead I would buy and install a completely new headset because you don't want to risk unpredictable or questionable steering, after all, your steering of your bike is probably important, isn't it. Now it's time for the dreaded bottom bracket, I say dreaded because that was the thing that I noticed as soon as I picked up the bike, I could only feel that the cranks weren't quite perfect and I like perfection a bike so I'm going to take the crank off, I'll be checking the bottom bracket too, just to see if there's any way to get it working again or else I'll have to put in a new unit.

Let's take a look. Now is the time to tackle that bottom bracket with old school tools. although believe me these are actually brand new and I think they are probably the first time they have been used in the GCN tech workshop as we don't usually have a lot of bikes that come with this type of floor so let's get that first Grab the circlip to remove it so we can get into the basics of the bottom bracket.

What I'm going to do is really just take the game and feel if the bearings are rough or smooth. Maybe it just happened because as you can see the lock ring was mega loose, so it makes me think that maybe the previous owner was in the middle of their job and just gave up. Anyway, let's see how slick it can be, with the tenon wrench here, turn this, just trying to compensate for a little bit of that slack.

It's pretty stiff in there, but bottom bracket, there's no movement and it's nice and smooth. So we're in luck, I'll just put the circlip on and the crank on, we're pretty much done, but don't worry, there are a couple of things I'll do with it. Now you didn't think I could get this bike working for just a few pounds spent on this cable, did you? No, in fact I'm going to put some new tires on this bike as they are surely outdated, well, I want the best puncture protection if I ever tour this bike.

So a bit of investment it's more than worth it. Now you will surely agree with me that putting new tires on this bike will ensure that my handling will be a little better r protected from punctures, as well as safer when cornering, not to mention the tires that I just removed, honestly were terrifying when I ripped them off the rim, they cracked and the smell didn't leave much to the imagination, now there's one last thing I'll do and wrap the handlebars, but I'll give you that don't do anything because I'm pretty special when it comes to it, there is a article for it instead. Now a little advice, if you walk along and see a sign like this, don't go any further.

Hold on, take the bike because it could be an absolute gem as I found it here with I'm amazed at that, to be completely honest. Now also remember to let me know what you would check on a bike if you found it on the side of the road, let me know in the comments section below and as always, give this article a big ole thumbs up and share it your buddies, especially if one of your buddies almost found dumpsters. Don't forget to visit the GCN shop at shop.globalcyclingnetwork.com and watch two more great articles now.

Go give him a watch.

Is it worth rebuilding a bike?

A department store quality bike is almost never a good repair investment. If the integrity of the frame is compromised, it's time for a new bike. If the frame is bent, cracked, rusted through, has broken welds, a stuck seatpost or bottom bracket, it's time for it to be retired.9 мар. 2019 г.

Is it cheaper to build a bike or buy a bike?

Cost. The conventional wisdom has been that it costs less to buy a complete bike, compared to building one up from a frame. This is true for the most part. With the deals available on lightly used frames and components, building up a frame can sometimes be the cheaper option.24 янв. 2019 г.

(dramatic music) - Welcome to Ask GMBN Tech, this is our 30th show so this is great. It's a weekly show where you can send in your questions about technical mountain bike things. And hopefully we can give you a decent answer, Learn To Understand About Bicycles, To receive your posts, send them to the email address located at the bottom of the screen or add them in the comments below.

Please use the #askGMBNtech so you can make your identification easy questions. So, jumping right on with Elias Sandell, is the downside of using a seven, eight, nine, 10-speed chain breaker and an 11-speed chain? I have one in a take kit and I don't know if I should get it to use it. Basically, they are pretty similar to Eliasthe chain tools, but chains are of course very different.

A 12-speed chain is much narrower than one Seven speed chain. Basically it'll do a lot more. It's I'll have flex built in.

It's gotten between all of those smaller gears and there is a lot more to do than an older seven-speed chain. While she can now break, reassemble, or re-assemble almost any chain with any chain tool, driving a pin through can be a little trickier if you're using the wrong compatibility on a chain tool because if the jaws are not properly aligned Don't drive the pen again. For example, if I keep this park now, I'll show you what I mean by that.

If I just undo that, you'll see here that the jaws on this one are actually movable, and that's because it's compatible with virtually all chain sizes. I mean, I think there are two or three that it is incompatible with I think they are probably Campagnolo stuff because they are a bit bizarre. It's an Italian company that makes things that are a little different.

But this is compatible with 12-speed chains backwards all the way down, so that essentially makes the difference. Now it also depends on the chain that is made by major manufacturers such as Shimano, Park, Topeak, etc. are in Generally pretty accurate, but there are a hell of a lot of emons on the market from other people.

They're a bit vague about what they sell is an eight-speed, but you might find that it works really well at 10 and 11. And it's something you won't know until you actually try it out and see if it's self-aligned. Essentially, if it's aligned and it works, happy days! You can use it to split and reconnect the chain.

Keep in mind that it is much easier and potentially safer to use adjacent hanging links these days. Now these can fit most chains on the market and it's as easy as splitting a chain until you have basically two identical joints. Insert and retract the main link.

It's basically a really simple tool-less system for joining a chain. And it's very safe too, because let's just say on the chain you have an outer place and you have an inner place and you have rollers to the middle. Now when you use the chain tool on the chain to reconnect the chain, place the chain in the jaws here and drive the pin all the way back.

But the pin has to go all the way into the second outer plate and if it's not all the way in, that's a weak link in the chain. And it's a matter of time before tension that pops out and basically breaks your chain. If the chain breaks while pedaling, you might be lucky.

You could just sit down. It snaps and nothing really happens, just the inconvenience. If your chain breaks when peddling on the load, like sprinting from the saddle for example, you will go over the bars and it will always happen at a time you would never ever expect and it would be a really worse one Crash.

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Just watch out. Make sure your chain tool is aligned and then you are good to go. Next up is Raymond Paculan's brake cleaning Hey Doddy nice articles thank you Raymond I want to ask if I can use contact cleaner n cleaning disc brake pads and rotors I also want to know which workshop towel you use in your maintenance articles Hopefully you answer that question.

Yes, of course, so basically we have brake cleaners here and some contact cleaners here. They are very similar and both contain isopropyl alcohol. Now, contact cleaner is probably the least offensive of these things.

It probably won't clean your brake pads as well as a specialty brake cleaner that contains more solvents. But obviously, the advantage of a contact cleaner is that you can get it anywhere. Lots of brands make contact cleaner and it's obviously safe for you to use it on electrical things like your car's ignition when you might have water in it, or some sort of? Number of digits.

And it's obviously safe for you to use in circuitry. Now, brake cleaner, even though it contains isopropyl alcohol, is a little more aggressive and while I'm sure there are some that are electronic device compatible, I don't think so , this one is particular and I think a lot of them are going to be a little too aggressive to use on some delicate plastics such as a circuit board. In answer to your question, yes.

You can use contact cleaners. Brake cleaner is better, but essentially, the isopropyl alcohol is what is in them and does the job. Also, make sure you use rubber gloves for work.

You want some kind of Nitrol glove because you don't want this stuff to get into your hands for too long because it's pretty gross. And you also don't want the oils in your skin to simply transfer to these brake pads because they can contaminate them. As for the workshop towel, here's some of it; there are many different ones on the market.

They're all pretty industrial. This particular one is made by a band called Scotts. You will see this in garages and traditional workshops.

You can buy it on trading venues. You can bulk buy it on Amazon which we do. But there are tons of different brands out there.

Well the reason we like this over some of the massive rolls you get is because these larger rolls tend to be a little softer paper. It doesn't go that far though you get more, but this one, I think the Scotts stuff, they're really pretty tough. I especially like it.

It's one of my favorites because it's pretty easy to reuse. So, let's go. Scott's workshop towel.

Okay, next from Isaac 232. Could you thread the bottom bracket on a press-fit bottom bracket frame to mount a threaded bottom bracket? No, I don't think you can. With a threaded bottom bracket, the bearings are usually out of the bores.

Sitting outside the shell, the whole point of the pressfit system is that the bearings are in exactly the same position. They are only in the shell, which is larger. So you can try threading this shell, but nothing really is going to happen unless you've ruined your frame.

I'm sure there could be some kind of bodge method, but I'll definitely not recommend it. I would stick with the interference fit it was designed to be and just make sure you install it properly and you have stream free driving. All right, next from Eric Camacho.

Hi Doddy, as you know on my last comment that my bike was stolen. Yeah, I sure remember seeing your name now. I've been thinking about building a bike like your bike.

But what would be better? Building one with your own gear or buying an entire bike and upgrading over time? I would build one, but I feel like it takes a little while, a little time consuming. I love to hear your thoughts. Alright so based on the bike building I do every week at the tech show, bear remember this is only for the good of the show, you know, it has been gradually distributed.

If this were my personal bike, I would have done it in a single session. I would ride the thing riding. Actually it would be half broken by now.

So I consciously take my time, because there is a lot behind it and there is still something to do with Fahrrad in the next episodes. But that said, personally I think building your own bike is one of the funnest things. I think every cyclist, man, bicycle or racing cyclist should do it sometime.

You should build a bike from scratch because it's really, really fun. You'll learn all about your bike when you do, and you'll also have the benefit of choosing every single part you want. However, you may not know all of the parts you want.

MaybeYou end up just writing yourself a really expensive shopping list of things, in which case I think maybe in your case it might be better to go for a straight style brand like Komoso, Canyon or one of these brands. Or you can get a really, really good frame and fork combo with a base groupset. And by the time you wear out the gearbox there, hopefully you've saved money at the same time, you've saved some money by buying the bike that way.

Start saving a little bit on the side and over time when you ride the bike let's just assume that you wear out your chainset when you go to some place to upgrade them the next. And then, as time goes by in the end you have a bike with much better components. Obviously, the only thing you need to add if you want to do this is that the frame is important because that's the thing you want to keep so make sure the frame is something you really like and really like want.

Make sure it's something you are likely to grow up with. So if you are still growing for example, make sure there is enough space to physically grow with the bike and have a decent guarantee on it. If you've had it for a long time, you want to make sure everything can be covered by the manufacturer if a problem arises.

The other thing that you need to consider are some of the components there transmission doesn't matter. It's completely irrelevant. That will wear out over time and you can raise it to better stuff.

Don't make any chances. You can save on the wheels, even the heavy ones, and buy lightweight wheels. This is not a problem.

Tires, they will wear out. We can lay them off to get tires that will suit your local riding but when it comes to the suspension fork and damper, some of the budget mortals mounted on budget bikes to keep their price down can't much to do with the internals on them so that when you buy your bike you get the best possible fork and shock absorber that you can afford, and that means that you can adjust that fork. You can order things like the course of the spring there later.

You can change the cushioning cartridge in the hoop if you want to get more power out of it when you do. Just something to grow with just like you would with the frame. If your focus is on getting a good fork, a good damper, a good frame, the rest you can do.

Over time, you'll also learn more about what you're saving Ully, you've got something out there and keep us posted what you buy. I am really interested. Okay, that sounds like a shopping list question.

So from Bugboy 152000, Doddy, can you help? I can find the right tool to disassemble my Raceface effect cranks for a thorough cleaning? I want to completely disassemble my Santa Cruz before winter storage this year. As far as I know, these cranks are no different from the others. You will need an 8 millimeter hex wrench to remove the crank from the bike.

You either need a Tork T25 or a 5mm Allen key to remove, whether it's the spider or the actual direct chainring, this crank is used. You will need a BB tool, which is one of those things, to remove the bottom bracket from the bike. You may need a hammer just to shock those cranks or the axle.

Softer end or a rubber end is a good idea so you don't damage the axle there d fat when reassembling things. You will also need threadlocker if you do this. You will need a towel and some kind of gloves to protect your hands.

And then you need a strong degreaser. And as I would recommend, hold onto things like old ice cream cups or any kind of plastic container. Especially the black plastics that can't be recycled so you can still use them for stuff like that which is great for getting the degreaser in and sticking those parts in and cleaning them well.

Old toothbrushes are great for carving around in and getting all of the crap out of that stuff. And let's go. That's it.

There's nothing particularly fancy you need. Just those decent tools and keep doing it. Okay, that's pretty cool.

This is from Mainz Man. You as me, you use a torque wrench, reminded me of something I asked for wanted to know it is recommended to always store the torque wrench on the lowest setting This applies to Park ATD? I assume it does and I tend to set mine to 4NM after use, but can't find anything to confirm online. I could just ask Parks, of course, but I think you might know.

I haven't seen any literature that says this. And I think it could be different with ATD, which is one of those little guys. If you haven't seen these before, there are adjustable torque settings and bits in the handle here, that's the old one, that's the ATD 1.

I think there is now a 1.2 that has a few extra features, magnetic bit holder for you to use Don't lose your bits. It's an alternative to classic ratcheting.

Well, as far as I know, the ratchet handles always need to be reset, but not to zero. I think it's on the lowest torque setting and it's because it has a ratchet in the way it works internally, now notice that these are a little different, when you get your torque setting on this so they kind of click, but you you can continue to use it. I think that is why it is important that you relieve the internal system in this.

The ATDs are a little different just the way they work. You can't really do that. You can't over tighten.

It's like a click stop. You can't over tighten this at all. I'm pretty sure these are fine, but I don't doubt that leaving it at 4NM for now is a good idea in this particular workshop, I know these are used all the time.

All that torque wrench stuff is special with our friends at GCN and GCM because they have a lot of carbon fiber, delicate cockpit parts on the bike so of course they have to make sure you don't over tighten them. On the mountable side of things, I personally use these quite a lot. I don't know how the other guys are doing.

But we use them enough, but I don't think our storage is a problem. I think it's more long term storage that you could damage a traditional torque wrench. But I'll ask Park, and in fact, I think we have a special guest who'll be visiting us from Park later this year.

So I'll keep you updated on this because I think we could do some cool things with Calvin. Okay, the next tie is for you Simy. My new bike has 35 millimeters rim width with plus tires.

Can I use 2.4 tires or do I need a smaller rim? You can use 2.4 tires, but not all of them.

So only for Example in the past, I had the Ibis 7.41 rims which are, I think they're 40 or 41 millimeters on the outside, 35 on the inside, so they are really, really wide rims. I've used the 2.3, 235, 24, and 2.5s.

No problem. But not all tires work. Well, a tire with a square profile, in general, if you put it on a wider rim they will even more square.

What cornering when you're really aggressive is a good thing. However, it makes them really flat on top. A, increases friction when you're just driving, and B makes a really terrible transition from the top of the tread to the side nobles.

It's' very much nothing if it happens and then you're all in the corner which means it can come off pretty easily despite the facts, it has a really good shoulder to support. So it will vary depending on the tires you are using on your particular bike. If you have a slightly rounded tire tread, these can actually be a lot more like a more aggressive square tread tire by using them on the wider rim.

So I guess you have to kind of try and see, to be honest, or at least some other drivers ask your particular tires to see what they did with theirs. But yes you can. Just not with all tires.

Okay, the last one is a Cle Mans clutch tire. Hey guys,% of my mechanical skills from your channel. Oh man.

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This is really cool. So you work on your bike yourself. I love to hear that.

However, I have a question about my drivetrain. I ride a 1 x 11 Shimano XT drivetrain . I've indexed my gears correctly and the gearshift is snappy and to the point.

No rubbing or scratching until I insert my clutch. When I'm up on the trail and put in the clutch, the lower 3 to 4 gears don't work quite as smoothly and the chain rubs on the next cog. Any tips? Honestly, I've never heard of a clutch that affects the way a gear shifts other than that you can feel a little more force through the lever when shifting.

First, I find it unusual for you to let go of a clutch and then only engage it to descend. Personally I would just leave it on all the time. That gives me an advantage.

I would also assume that your circuits are set up correctly in the first place or that you've done your upper and lower limit screws. You have your B voltage which is the swing voltage on that rear derailleur, and you've got everything set there with the correct cable tension, try again by re-indexing your gears but with the clutch on. Try the same thing again with those smaller gears and take the clutch off and see if it affects what I'm pretty sure it won't.

Then you know what the problem is, but I find it strange that it should be a problem in the first place to be honest and it would suggest to me that a clutch puts more tension on the lower cage, that something is loose, so something might be loose on the derailleur, but maybe a jockey wheel or guide wheels, check these out. Even the main hanger bolt itself could be loose. But I can't imagine that it will ever really affect your transmission so I guess you need to get rid of this and try to find it.

Let us know, Cle, because this is strange. I've never heard that before. Okay so the end of another question is GMBN Tech.

Hopefully I've answered some of your questions. Get yours in the comments below and fire them up at the email address that was on the screen at the beginning. For a few more cool articles, click here for our Press fit BB maintenance article.

Not only is this fit for press, but I hope it clears all the brooks and moans. But I use a pressfit as an exa please in this article and click here to see our Evolution of Maevic Hubs. It's a little story and I think it's pretty cool and it has a lot of information in it, friends who don't subscribe, subscribe, and if you enjoy asking tech questions, give us a thumbs up.

Is it cheaper to rebuild or replace an engine?

It's quite likely that engine rebuilding can save you money compared to engine replacement depending on the engine problem you are faced with and the cost of the parts needed for the repair. Depending on the situation, rebuilding your engine can save you up-to half of what you would of spent on replacing your engine.

Turn up your engines, Jesus Federn says Scotty I want to convert an Asix 4.0 transmission in my Jeep Cherokee, I want to replace the four-wheel drive with a manual, what do you recommend in Denver Colorado to send the block to birth and buy an overhauled transmission , yeah, if you can get a reconditioned gearbox I would do that but the block, I don't advise trying to have a guy drill out the block, someone else you want, you're better off getting a completely overhauled engine that's how it works, well, they are very popular and a lot of people like to mod them for off-road use. There are tons of places out there where you can buy really good quality, reconditioned engines, I would just go out and let them do the whole thing and then put it in because you don't want to mix it up, over the years I've seen more and more people have serious problems with their vehicles because, well, one guy did the block, another did the head, another put it together and everyone tries to blah the other if there is a problem they want a high quality refurbished Engine if you want to get it right not this whole thing here one there, Jose says good morning Mr.

Kilmer I was wondering about the Chevy SSR, where are you? decent trucks, no I hope you haven't bought one yet, I've had customers buying them, they just had a headache some of them tried to sue GM under the Lemon Act to get their money back, one of them actually did but the others they didn't win when they had their case with the negotiator because many times and negotiators are actually selected by GM mediators that they'll be on whose side they'll be, you know, not so honest anymore, originally was it's that, but it's not the quality anymore, these things just don't have the quality, but if you have them take care of it, the guy came up to me with one the other day and said, well, what should I use Scotty, me said look you get nothing? for if you sell it and it works well now, just let me wait for you and if something big goes up, I'll tell you get rid of it now or just keep driving until the wheels fall off, that doesn't work at all and then throw the thing away, you're stuck not a lot of money in but if you have one, take care of it, you never know how long something will last and if it's paid for what the hell just keep driving it, if you don't get anything for it it's my theory with every car , Michael Blackwell tells Scotty, I'm thinking of buying a Honda Element for $ 5,000 with 150,000 miles, should I get the automatic or the stick, you definitely want the stick, the automatic is kind of weak on those things, the sticks are screamers I have customers with items with standard five-speed gears that burn rubber in all four gears, the things are snappy, they don't weigh that much, and with a standard gearbox, it's a lot more fun to watch listen, you have better gas mileage and it won't break like the honda automatic gearbox, honda of course started out as a motorcycle company, they all have standard gearboxes except a 750 honda they once built with an automatic that was a piece of junk, that they couldn't sell, nobody wanted to buy it, they were horrible, so their standard gears are bulletproof, buy the standard, don't buy the automatic and then things can really whiz around, but if it got a hundred and fifty thousand miles on it I'd try something Paying less than five grand for it is a lot of money for that kind of mileage really, says Eric Scotty, good morning what do you think of the 2003 Ford Focus standard gearbox with one hundred and thirty eight thousand miles on it, the Focus is a bottom line car but the main problems they have is their automatic transmissions, they even had a collective clause for some of them ge against them, that's the standard gearbox, a lot beaten vehicle, I have customers with old focuses with standard gearboxes that have 250,000 miles and they're still ru nning strong, so that's not bad, it might take a long time, but if They talk about buying one and it's an 03 with 138,000 miles, you don't pay that much for it because the resale value isn't that high, you are you won't get any guarantees so you know you are playing with your own money but you don't pay that much for getting it a little cheaper, you get your money out of it, you always pay less for an older car that has higher mileage, it might be a good car because it's a standard, but don't pay too much, never pay too much, Bernice says I have a 1.9 TDI engine that burns a lot of oil, 1 liter every 500 kilometers, can it be the turbo? Yes it can be the turbo that the turbo blows past, note that the turbo on this thing is also oil cooled and oil lubricated just like the engine, it uses the same oil supply and when the seals start going it will blow through and so can you? Say just take the air line from the duct work that goes from the turbo into the engine where it sucks the air in, if that's all covered in oil on the inside it's the turbo because it should be totally dry when it has oil , your turbo is bad, just check it, if not then it's your engine that just burns oil, I bet it's the turbo because a lot of them do that as they get older, when they do that at Volkswagen, their quality control is no longer what it used to be to say the least, which is a big reason I tell people definitely not to buy Volkswagen anymore in the United States I never want to miss any of my new car repair articles again, think to ring the bell!

How much does it cost to rebuild a 250 4 stroke?

Depending on what parts need to be replaced and whether or not you're doing the work yourself, a 4 stroke engine rebuild can cost anywhere from -3000+ for parts and labor. A typical 4 stroke dirt bike top-end rebuild with a fresh piston, valves and timing chain will generally cost about 0-700 in parts.

Can you restore a rusted bike?

You can use either Jenolite Rust Remover or Jenolite Rust Converter to restore your bike, depending on how rusty it is. Once you can see the rust has separated from the metal, simply wipe away to reveal a bare metal surface that's ready to be painted over!

Is it worth rebuilding a mountain bike?

Unless the frame is unusually valuable, it is almost never 'worth it' to buy new major parts, such as a new rear wheel (with cluster, et al). A new rear wheel, once you've got the sprockets and tire on it, will cost in excess of 0, and could run 0-300 if you're determined to find 'equivalent' parts.16.01.2018

Can I put a bike together myself?

There are parts of bicycle which you can basically put it by yourself such as stem post and seat, handle, front wheel and fork. First and foremost, you must have the bike special tools, the generic tools will roughly work but there's high chances of damaging your bicycle parts.

Are Rebuilt engines as good as new?

These remanufactured engines are torn down in small factories, where an entire set of crankshaft bearings, piston rings, seals and gaskets, among much else, is installed. If properly done, a remanufactured engine should be as good as a new engine and it should carry a warranty for a year.

How many times can an engine be rebuilt?

How many times can a car engine 1500 CC be overhauled? - Quora. There is no limit to the number of times an engine can be rebuilt.

Other Questions In This Category

Kona fat bikes - how to tackle

Are Kona bikes good quality? Just fine, but there are many factors to consider. My Kona is a custom build with a higher end fork. It has a good quality steel frame, which has a better ride quality than aluminum and it fits me perfectly.15 мар. 2014 г.

Electric bike motor - how to tackle

What is the best motor for an electric bike? Best e-bike motors for commutingMahle X35+ A smart motor with antitheft protection. Yamaha PW CE. Claimed to be the quietest motor on the market. Fazua Evation. A lightweight low-power motor that's ideal for fit riders. Specialized SL 1.1. FSA System HM 1.0. Bosch Cargo Line. Shimano EP8.Jun 15, 2021

Volume of a bike tire - listed questions and answers

What is the volume of a tire? The average car tire has a volume of 10 Liters and a pressure of 32 psi (14.7 psi =1 atm) The average bike tire has a volume of 4 Liters and a pressure of 85 Psi.

Biking calories burned - answering the questions

How long does it take to burn 1000 calories on a bike? 56 to 83 minutes

Bike frame building class - pragmatic solutions

How much does it cost to build a bike frame? The cost of a bike “built from scratch” starts at $1000. We use approximately $500 in “new bike parts” and a “used bike frame”. You will go step by step from choosing a frame to ordering and installing the parts.

How to true a bike wheel - durable solutions

Is it hard to true a bike wheel? Truing a wheel involves tightening and loosening the spoke nipples to realign warped sections of the rim, and it's something you can do at home. “It's meticulous and time-consuming, but the actual principle of it is pretty simple,” says Justin McCloud, professional bike mechanic and owner of Blackbird Bike Co.23 нояб. 2020 г.