Bike cover for bike rack - pragmatic solutions
How do I protect my bike when traveling?
No matter how far you are transporting it, make sure you take the necessary things with you to protect your bike. Always take a bike lock, at rag or wipe to give your bike a quick clean, and a bike cover if you are going to be leaving your bike out in the elements for any period of time.31 июл. 2019 г.
No matter how well you care for your bike or how often you do it, occasionally you will still make mistakes while working on your bike. And all too often they are exposed when you drive off, hit the trails at the last minute, or even put your bike in the back of the car. Here are some of the classics how to work around them. (upbeat music) And the first one we're going to look at is something I very much I almost did it myself and that's putting and pulling the front brake lever when there's no wheel in the bike.
And of course that means your brake pads are compressing and clogging the wheel in your bike. I delayed your ride. So I'll just pull the bike out and show you a few ways to work around this and what you should do to avoid it. (Happy music) - Okay so I took the bike out the back of the carand, as you can see in this case, those brake pads are really close together.
So what you have to do is pry them apart. Now there are a couple of different ways you can do this. Now the first option is the Park Tools PP-1.2 and the task is to just push these pads apart.
Now if you have one of these or get yourself a similar tool. The important thing is that it is clean and has no grease or oil on it. You don't want that near your brake pads.
You just have to slide it between the brake pads. Give it a little until it is sent home towards the back of the caliper there and it pushes the pistons back into place, and as you can see now, it is spaced enough apart for the disc rotor to slide back into position as it should be. However, you may not have any of these tools or feel that you do not need all of the tools in your tool kit.
The other solution is a simple flathead screwdriver. The wider the head of the screwdriver the better, because it will do a better job. Same thing goes just to pinch yourself in it and pry them apart, but make sure there's no oil or grease there, the same action applies.
Takes a little more care with a screwdriver than a special tool, but you can get the same result, ready for the disc rotor to slide back in there, and then the wheel will go straight into it. How can you get around this now and prevent this thing from happening in the future? The best way to do this is with a bleed block with the brakes that you have, you can get a bleed block that has room at one end when you take out the pads to bleed those brakes and there is literally a spacer on the other end to slide between these brake pads and basically act to take up the space that the brake disc would. And that means when the brake lever is pulled in the back of the car, or wherever it is what's happening, your brake works against it like a disc rotor.
No problem. Just pull it out before riding, put it somewhere it won't get too greasy, insert your bike and off you go. While most of the brake kits are now included and are readily available for your local bike store, you may not have one on hand.
In this case, any old piece of cardboard will do. In this case, I saved the packaging from a tube that I have with me. You can fold the same thing over a couple of times, and that will work nicely as a standoff while you're carrying your bike. (Joy music) - Now you've solved the braking problem, it's time to put the wheel in the bike myself I need to put my quick release axle in place.
Now we see that people struggle quite a bit with this because they are a little bit sticky at times, they are not aligned properly, they don't really fit, are you fixing that? Simply put, you have to service these like any other part of the bike. They have moving parts, they have a cam. As long as you keep these nice and clean, apply some spray lubricant to these moving parts, a little bit of lubricant or something very light grease, like a spray grease, just on the axle and taking the excess off is enough to help it go through the axis itself.
Then of course you have to make sure that you turn the lever in the right direction. Now there are a couple of different ones on the market. This is the Fox QR15 that I'm demonstrating with this one, I'll also show you the rear one that I have.
Now that particular one is clean, I just wiped it off. But what you want to do is make sure the cam itself has been lubricated so it can move freely. Sag a few times, and then of course wipe off the excess.
Now you might just want to put a bit on the axle itself. Again, You don't want to have too much on it, just run enough so that it can happen through beautiful and clear straight into the bike. As you can see, it glides much better.
A little bit of TLC goes a lot with any mechanical part. Now of course it is very important to bring the lever up in the correct orientation. On the QR15, the lever should be pushed down at this point and there should be between one and twenty millimeters between it and the fork.
This is fully closed so this is a safe position. On the Rockshox Maxle, the safe position is actually following the fork towards the back of the bike. Now it is important that you have your specific lever in the correct orientation.
When you do For example, if you are using a Rockshox Maxle and the front lever is pointing forward, A: it will likely not be attached properly which means it could come loose. And B: Probably even worse is the fact that it could get caught in any terrain, like blackberries or something. and pull themselves up, and as you ride it will self-loosen and your bike could come out.
So it is natural for your own safety and the performance of the bike to ensure that your axles are properly installed. Give them a little love, give them a little lubricant, make sure they are in the correct orientation and are attached to the bike. Now that particular rear wheel is a DT Swiss.
It is screwed directly into the frame. As you can see here, the lever is not in the best position so pull this out and you can reposition it so it is in the correct position. Obviously, it depends on your preferences.
I like mine to be rear-facing because it's away from any kind of danger of being bumped and unwound on that bike. Some people will prefer mine to keep it nice and tidy. Of course it is with The one in front is more important because you really don't want to undo it.
But let's go. So just make sure to pay attention to these axles and keep them lubricated, just like any other moving part. (Happy music) Another classic is when you switch your pedals before riding, maybe from clips to flats or vice versa.
Too often I see people who have bikes turned upside down and they go back on the Allen key and it slips and slams ankles into the chainring. Do not do that. Because if that fits really tight you have to do a lot of work, what do you think is going to happen? Not nice.
So use your weight advantage. Lay the rubber side of the bike down and stand over the bike itself. Now you want to put the Allen key in the back of the pedal and just lean on it.
You can hold on to the opposite crank and easily undo the pedal. And then all you have to do is put the back in and just take it out again. Now, too, don't even think about what to do when you release the pedals, a lot of people actually forget how to tighten them or how to undo them.
The easiest way to do this is with the rubber side down, both pedals pull toward the front of the bike and they loosen toward them. Keep that in mind and you can always put your pedals on and off properly. But secondly, only when your pedal threads are dry and your pedals are firmly tightened will they be extremely difficult to get off.
So do yourself a favor, put a little fat on these threads. Not too much, just enough to lubricate it, and then you'll tighten them up, and they're easier to undo next time. (Happy music) - About to hit these trails and of course you just want a little Put lubricant on your chain before you run it.
Everything runs fine and smoothly. And one of the options that a lot of people have is some kind of spray lubricant like this. Now I also often see people aiming the spray directly at the rear cassette.
Of course your disc rotor is right behind it, and if it's windy you will get an oil mist flying around there around the bike. So don't do this as this oil, if it comes in contact with the rear disc washer, will definitely stain these pads. And your brake is either going to howl and not work, or it just won't work.
So if you're one of those riders who loves to use a spray lubricant, just think about it before you start spraying: is it windy? If it's windy, most likely you will get a mist of lubricant getting into places you don't necessarily want. So, the first thing I would suggest is to get a shop towel and cram it into your disc rotors. Make sure that if you insist on spraying spray somewhere that will get it, that will catch it.
But of course your bike might not have disc brakes. Your bike may still have broken rims. If so, you'll need to put a shop towel just to protect the rims from the chain splattering down here.
I'm just going to show you how I would spray my chain to protect this rim. Drive the chain backwards, just a little spray directly on the parts of the chain length that you really want to get the lubricant in. The inside of the link is what contacts the chainring and the rear sprocket so you want to apply the lubricant there.
Now all you want to do is let the chain run around that shop towel so you don't drag excess dirt and grime onto the chain while you are now the best solution, especially for the back of your car, is to always have an oil that you drop right in Apply the chain links. It's a lot less dirty. You end up using less lube because you don't have to spray anywhere and you really can't get it exactly where you want it.
And it's the safest option to avoid getting near your brakes. (upbe music) - Now there are a few final things you need to do before hitting these trails. One of them is inflating your tires.
Now I've seen it a million times where people, a little hastily, jump in to inflate their tires with a mini-pump, plug on and they damage the end of the valve core. If you are in a hurry now, you can damage the valve cores while inflating. Now this particular pump is like a mini track pump, or mini floor pump, in the way that it has a chuck on the end.
So this is actually a pretty safe pump to use before venturing out on these trails. However, not all mini pumps are like that. Some of them allow you to add the actual part of the pump directly to the valve.
And often you see people inflating seriously damaging the end of the valve. When that happens, you will most likely have a bent valve core making it useless to bring air in and of course to let it out. What's really bad because it is? Step away from the actual snap, which means the air will come out.
So you should definitely get yourself a valve core remover. For the obvious reason that you can take these valves out of the actual valve stem. So this is a damaged one that is no longer good to use.
Fortunately, I have a few spare parts. These things don't cost a lot of money. Well worth having a few in your tool kit.
Keep them next to a valve core remover and it means you won't have this problem driving them again. Speaking of valve cores, it's important to always make sure that your valve cores are nice and tight. And the reason for this is A: obviously you don't, I don't want anyone to escape from there, but B: a lot of pu mps actually screw on the valve stem themselves, and if your valve core is loose when you unscrew it you will Undo valve core at the same time.
What is the result now? (Loud hiss of air) Now as I explained, this particular pump has a separate hose, which means that moving the pump once it's attached doesn't affect the actual valve core. However, if your particular pump is attached directly to the valve core, make sure that you actually assist that in pumping, the reason being that there can't be any flex, and therefore the least likely to damage the valve core and what more importantly, lose all of the air in one fell swoop, which makes your ride a bit painful. So there you go.
My bike is safe together, out of the trunk of the car. There is nothing wrong with it, it is ready to drive. All I have to do is put on my trusty sports gear and go.
If you'd like to see a few more useful articles, click here for five hydraulic disc brake setup hacks. And if you want to see how you overhaul your clipless pedals, both Shimano and Crankbrothers of course, click up there. As always, click the round globe to log in.
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Is a bike cover good?
Protecting your bike from damage during storage is a must-do because the metal frame can become victim to the elements. Any mountain biker worth their salt, or even anyone passionate about mountain biking, knows that buying a bike cover is absolutely essential.
Need a motorcycle cover well stay close because i will explain you the last cover you will ever need to buy Hey two wheeler family welcome back to another edition of tech tips Thursday and today we are talking about motorcycle covers cheers so today I am sharing the final motorcycle cover with you, that you'll ever need to buy, and I've probably owned these covers for seven or eight years and since I've bought them I've received numerous exchanges and I've never paid a dime for them, let me show you what it is so the Dowco Weatherall and the result makes several different models of covers but this one is especially the one you want. It's called Weatherall Plus and the reason you want it is because you have that one lifetime guarantee on it no matter what happens to it, it breaks it fades it cracks it leaks everything that goes wrong with it, you send it back to them , they replace it and give you another one the only thing that when they charge you it's only 10 shipping costs and that's it and they send you a new one. The whole process usually takes about a week.
This is the cover itself. The nice thing is that they actually give you a stuff sack to keep so they give you a stuff sack to keep, I'll open it up and show you what's inside. I actually used this stuff sack for camping if you have bulky items that you can squeeze, you can throw them in here and that makes them great together.
I now have three different models of motorcycle covers. I had one for the cbr. I gave them to the gentleman who bought the bike when I sold it just because it was so good cover I wanted him to have good protection for it because he told me he will keep it outside, and then I bought one for the night and I also bought what is known as the half cover for travel, so whenever I am on a trip I always bring this half cover with me, it does a good job, the thing is quite stuck there, so that's the actual cover now i don't know if you can see the actual material this is a very thick material also it almost feels like some of the motorcycle jackets and it's 100% waterproof so it will keep your bike dry, it is ventilated so that the moisture trapped under the bike is trapped from the rain hitting the ground and being pulled up through vents underneath the bike that allow the air to escape, for the last e what you want is moisture to sit in the cover. actually rusts parts on your bike, it's also UV resistant so it will resist fading and that's part of the guarantee.If it ever fades in the sun you can return it and they will replace it for free so all the stitching is the Inside is taped to ensure it is waterproof, there are no leaks at the seam and the best part is that it is heat resistant, meaning you can come back from a ride.
Throw it right on your bike, it hits the exhaust pipes it's n it won't fall apart it won't melt it won't burn this is one of my favorite features because the last thing i want to do when i go home for a ride wait for the bike to cool then go back out and cover it up I just want to cover it up and be done and I recently failed one of the seams on the last one which is why I have this replacement. I am telling them that I cannot reach them about all they need is that you cut out the part of the material that the defect is in and send it in with the sticker on the outside with the model number is a brand new one a great offer and the nice thing about it is that every time they send it back to you they send you a new one so you can get another pack sack as well, so i have about three or four of those stacks of stuff that can't beat that My take is that I'm paying € 10 to get a pack sack. Here is the cost now they all have different sizes on their website.
They actually have some kind of locator that you type into the type of bike you have, what year it is, and they now fit the right bag for you with mine I actually have both i I have the top case I added and i had the windshield so i decided to just give them a call and ask what would best fit my bike this model and extra large i opted for the sport turing model an extra large and fits like a glove i love this thing, so the size i'm using is the extra large and this fits just great, so anyone with a st or so is about the same size as a st 1300 that fits perfectly, if you don't like it, i said you can up Go to their website and enter the model of bike you have, they will tell you the recommended size or you can call them and they will tell you the size by phone now. These are available le in all different styles and sizes and prices range from 29 to 145 for their top-of-the-line premium. Now the difference will be in the thickness of the cover, how well it protects, whether it is a travel cover, half cover fully cover some of them also have a zipper opening make it easy to put on and take off some even have a ratchet system I have neither Ratchet still decided on the zipper I only decided on the standard weather and now not all models will have the lifetime guarantee, it has to be the weather and it has, if I'm not mistaken, I think that this is at the time of the Kauf was 89.99 and admitted, I've had it for about seven years now, it's worth the money.You can't go wrong if you want to spend the extra money and choose the one with the zipper or the one with the ratchet that's up to you you i didn't see a need for it doesn't take that long to put the cover on, but i guess for some of the bigger bitches i kes ann see where it might make sense to do it now, unfortunately when i bought it this was only available in black.
Since the release of a gray color which I prefer more for my application I'm here in Florida, we get sun you know more than 300 days a year, so the gray cover doesn't absorb as much sun and doesn't generate as much heat, but unfortunately i have this and if you do the swap it will just be replaced with the same one i asked her if i could pay the difference and get the gray one. They said no it wasn't an option, i would have to buy a brand new cover so yeah i won't but yeah listen the quality is amazing, my bike was always dry and you know we are in florida me had storms this bike has weathered hurricanes with it and uh it passed the test so it's a great cover, i definitely recommend it and it has a lifetime warranty so you so you have nothing to lose, something happens, you get another one for fr ee well 10 buck shipping almost free but you get an extra stub stack so you pay 10 buck for the stuff sack i am not sponsored by them you know i bought these with my own money all three covers I'm just the firm believer. In the company that supports their products, I love the fact that they come with a lifetime guarantee and they actually stand behind it h the hoops you fill out the form I pay for ten dollars on their website and they usually ship a new product - the whole process takes about a week so you can't beat that now.
Another nice feature that I haven't seen on any cover. These have an inside pocket for an alarm clock that they sell. The motorcycle cover warning is basically a small alarm that you put on the inside and has a small clip that attaches to the motorcycle.
When someone lifts the cover you can see what kind of bike is underneath, it's a deafening alarm clock I have it, I don't always use it because the bike is right outside my door. I have a camera on it. If I ever park it outside of my house, I use the alarm clock I put in and it works on a 9 volt battery.
You can always find one, anywhere, it's just one more level of security Dowco Weatherall plus the last cover you will ever need to buy Get a cover for your bike and let me know how you like it to finish off If you have anything valuable from the article, please do us a favor Click the 'Like' button Do a lot of reviews all the time and with that in mind, I'm Mike Mr and Mrs Two Wheeler and I'll see you on the road.
Will a bike cover protect my bike?
A bike cover is simply pulled over your bike to keep the worst of the weather off while it's stored outside. Whilst certainly better than leaving your bike open to the elements, bike covers will do nothing in terms of security.
In the long run, your mountain bike will always have some battle marks while riding it. Whether it's just jumping up stones and hitting the paint, the unfortunate falls, putting the bike in the back of the car, stacking up forklifts, all that stuff, it'll pay tribute to your bike finish. So what you really want to do is maintain it with some protective film.
Today I'm going to assemble Neil's bike which is brand new. So, start here on good terms, make sure it looks nice and good from the start. But you don't have to have a new bike to do this.
You can do this on your pre-existing bike and just make sure your paint job looks as good as it does now until you're ready to sell it. (Fire crackle and explosion) So, tools for the job: First you need some kind of frame protection kit, some rubber mastic tape, electrical tape, zip ties, bike cleaner, isopropyl alcohol, scissors and, if necessary, hair dryer or heat. First things first, you need some type of frame protection Kit.
There are several on the market. From the basic ones like this one that are pre-cut for different sections of the bike. Or you can get yourself a 3M helicopter strap, which comes in sheets like this one or in rolls, or you can opt for a full-blown kit from someone like Invisiframe that will make them to measure per bike.
Of course we went for the easy option here because it's beautiful and cheap, affordable, easy to install. So before you get carried away with sticking the stuff on, you'll want to make sure that your bike is completely clean in the areas where you plan to put the tape. If your bike is made of aluminum, you want to make sure the frame is warm.
So keep it inside overnight, or just heat the pipe sections with a hair dryer if necessary.The stuff sticks properly to the frame. With the carbon frame it's less of a problem e just because the material feels warmer.
So since we're not using a full frame kit we're only using selective small patches, we want to make sure we put them in the right places on the bike I'm looking for areas here where rocks and material will touch when they fly up. Areas where the cables will touch the frame, if the suspension may be moving or the handlebars turning, and other areas as well. The top tube, that's good classic, where your knee pads rub against the tube and just kind of dull the finish.
So let's just look at the dressing. So let's start with the top tube first. Check out the top tube here on Neil's bike.
I have the longest section in the kit. The main area I'm focusing on is actually the gray section here between the curve on the seat mast here and the curve right on the bottom of the top tube. So what you need to take into account is the fact that the frame has a curvature.
So this will make it difficult if you make good contact so this will stick. So I'm going to cut this right down so it runs out of here because it will never really get much use and just to make sure it wraps around on the bottom here. To do that, a stencil is a good idea.
So I actually made a bit of a paper template a second ago. It just aligns up here and roughly follows the shape I want to cut into main body the top tube area that Neil will be rubbing his knee and stuff when he's on the trail. And it doesn't interfere too much with the lines of the bike either.
So I just used the stencil to kind of cut the shape about the way I want it. Something that only matters is when you cut it yourself don't leave any square edges because if it is lifted anywhere you will snag it there. So just cut off small, round ends so that it stays in place no matter the weather.
This particular kit just fits on a clean, dry tube and you simply squeeze out the air bubbles by hand. But some kits like the 3M stuff tell a lot of people it's best to get them wet using some type of shampoo or detergent. You mix the water, you spray on, you float the kit around until it's in the right place, and you use a squeegee to gently squeeze out the kind of moisture and it'll help it stick in the perfect spot, whichever kit you choose buy, you just follow the correct instructions for it.
So it's really important that you put it on the best you can so that it stays on your bike for as long as possible and, more importantly, it looks really good. You don't want to be attracted to any plastic-type bubbles. So, I just start at the head tube end, just on the carbon side of it here and then just centralize.
Now I'm not going to do the page right away. I'll just do it o the top and I'll bend it over after that. I'm just going to make sure I get it aligned as much as possible.
Of course these kits are a lot cheaper and a lot easier to replace if you go wrong investing in one of the full size frame kits that cover it all, you really need to take your time to install it and you can with some of the fiddier frame designs take a couple of hours. What we're doing here on Neil's bike only covers one of the two areas where he kind of gets a bit tingly on his bikes. I've noticed this from previous bikes.
Now all you want to do is take your time and make sure it goes as smoothly as possible. No air bubble. It will look good for a long time.
It is a good idea to do this before your bike gets too ugly and dented and dented. And you will hardly know the protection is there. And it is a good idea Doing this indoors just to make sure the glue stays nice and warm gives you the best chance to properly bond to your frame.
So, up here on the head tube, this is obviously the business end of the bike. You have the cables and the controls. So, on Neil's special bike, he has a dropper post cable and his rear brake cable comes out of the right side of the head tube here.
Just his internal guidance here. And you can see they rub against the head tube here under full steering and locking. We just want to make sure it's protected underneath so it doesn't wear out and lose its color.
And vice versa. So it's his rear derailleur cable. So I'm just going to make a mark here where we want the protection.
Again you I'll cut this to look as neat as it gets. Get it in place. You just want to peel it off halfway.
This way I can make sure it is lined up exactly where I want it, just like I did with the one on the top tube. So of course you can see it up close, that's one of the negatives with something like that. But it's a frame protection kit.
In the long run, if you don't start losing your paint job, you'll be grateful for that. Now this particular frame has a down tube protector on the bottom. Stones fly up, but nothing on the top of the tube.
You probably won't get rocks flying up and damaging your tube in that area, but if you pick up your friend's pickup when you lean the bike over your back, it can make a nice, practical pad here, only to prevent your frame from being blunted by the pickup pad that sits across the back. When installing this on the down tube here it is important to only consider the curvature of the tube. just like with the top tube.
I noticed that when I turn the front to the side, this whole area needs to be protected. It's roughly down from the edge of the foreground that caught your eye. I noticed that it is actually almost pe. sits exactly where the gray meets the orange.
So make a nice line so hopefully it will blend in well with the frame. Now I know I have measured this, I have to go about two mills below that line and it will be perfectly aligned so you can easily see the edge, but once it has moved a bit you can no longer notice it there. And more importantly, if he puts his bike on the back of his mate's pickup truck I know he has one and he's probably watching this article, it'll sit fine there, it won't take away its nice little paint job.
Okay, so Neil's bike has an internal guide on the down tube here and exactly where the cable exits, where it is connected to the seat stay and goes directly to the rear neck piece, it can rattle somehow, just somehow contact with the seat tube there. And the same on the other side for the disc brake disc. So, I'm just going to put a tiny bit on the bottom here just to make sure the varnish finish stays on as good as possible for as long as possible.
There are some preformed sections here that are the ideal size. So, just one of them, again I'll just use a piece of backing material that I already used here on the back of course, the smaller parts can be seen a little more here. When you ride the Clifton, you will likely find that your feet don't move too much.
But I know Neil likes to ride flat pedals quite a bit, and one of the things that flat pedal riders tend to do is shift their foot position down. So quite often you get parts of seat and chain stays, the color of which is only rubbed off on the ankles. And it's not really bad to ride, it's just the fact that you're moving pretty aggressively.
So I've got enough here, and it's a really good size, to protect the seat stay on Neil's bike. So I'm just cutting a strip here to do both sides. And the same as with the other sections, you just want to make sure they have rounded edges so they have the best chance of staying as long as possible.
Again you can see that part of it is in place, but from a distance you will never know. And if your heels just rub against the seat stays here, you won't lose any color. The next thing I noticed on this Nukeproof bike is that there is a really good chainstay protector here that extends all the way down the back where the chain contacts rub against the chainring.
So this is fantastic. But I also noticed that there is nothing on the bottom here, I'm going to clean the inside and I'm using this magic tape from 3M, so this is rubber mastic tape, so it's an electrician tape by trade, but it actually is one of the best things in the world a biker can own. So, it's basically a self-amalgamating tape that sticks everything together and offers really good protection for your frame.
Although chain tension is really good these days with a clutch mech. I know how Neil drives so I'll just clean up a little bit more on the bottom here. I know he likes a quiet bike like w So this will secretly do it.
Will do this all in one. So I've already cleaned that up. It'll just sit on the bottom like that.
You will especially notice the effect of the noiselessness in your bike when you are riding a lot of rough, rocky and fast trails and your chains are clapping around. You actually have to check it out first to see if your chain is still on because you're making your bike so much quieter, it's kind of creepy you walk. With the bare minimum of cheap frame protection kit, Neil has managed to protect the head tube well from cable abrasion, down tube if he wants to put it on the back of a pickup, top tube from his knee pads, that's one. the more important, and of course for other cables and such.
And then with the rubber he managed to sort just his chain and seat stays. So it's a really good little way to keep your bike safe and make sure it keeps looking better for longer and of course to rest too. Hopefully it was useful for you.
For a few more articles, check out how to winterize your bike, this will protect your bike for winter and all the nasty things that happen. And for ten zip tie hacks and bodges, special favorites, click below. Don't forget to click on the globe in the middle here to subscribe.
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Is it OK to keep a bike outside?
The bottom line: Leaving your bike outside for a day or two won't do major damage. You may see signs of rust after a week of neglect. After one month in bad conditions, your beloved bike parts will start to degrade.16 окт. 2020 г.
Theft of your mountain bike is the worst that can happen to any of us mountain bikers, and if you lock your bike in public, you'd better make sure it's really, really safe. Now we are going to show you how vulnerable the mountain bike is and we will show you how to make your bike as safe and secure as possible. (Hissing) (knife sharpening noise) Even if your bike is locked, it is not safe.
Every lock can be technical seen to be broken, regardless of whether it was cut, smashed, plucked or blown open. And the key to stealing your bike is how easily you leave it open to a thief. So I'm going to try something out here.
I'm actually going to try and steal my own bike just to prove something to you. Let's see how it works. You may be wondering why I am wearing a bright yellow vest and not, for example, a dark, inconspicuous hooded top.
Well my theory is that thieves don't care. Openness is the best policy. They go straight to whatever they want and they take it.
Well I thought I was going to try to do the same. (quirky music) (whistling) So the coast is pretty clear to go in and blatantly steal my own bike Be honest, okay so a little disclaimer: I used a really cheap nasty lock for this and the bolt cutters, them are good for an 8mm stud's hard work. But the point is, I just wanted to demonstrate that I could just go and get my bike, nobody was paying attention to whatever.
Of course, there are different situations for this and you may have seen Casey Neistat on his YouTube channel how he makes a lot more noise and still doesn't attract any attention. But I just want to emphasize the point, it's about taking a bike in public. So whatever you do, you have to get it right.
So let's go back to the studio and check out some real locks before we show you how to use them. (upbeat music) The first step in keeping your bike safe is to invest in advertising ecent quality lock. Now you have to consider how much your bike is worth.
If it's something you really love, then you want to take care of it. So, in relative terms, a few hundred pounds for a lock is not a lot of money to spend. But you could spend £ 10 on a lock.
It's entirely up to you. I would always spend the largest amount possible and get the best lock possible, if not multiple locks, taking you through some of the types of locks on the market and learning what they're good at and what isn't. Let's look at the classic D-lock first.
So these are really known as bike locks that have the profile of a D, basically when you put it on its side. This special one is made by ABUS. We have a selection here that you might notice, from different brands.
We have some Kryptonite locks, we have some ABUS locks and we also have some Hiploks, each of them have their own quirks and their own kind of individuality that suits different types of users, this is granite, this is super heavy . It's a really heavy lock. Great for locking your bike absolutely anywhere, corrosion resistant, all that stuff.
But the problem is that it's extremely difficult. It's not the type of lock you're going to want to mount on your bike and really don't want to carry it around in your bag. So these are things to consider with any type of lock.
Perhaps this would be the best foundation, you could use it at home, although we always say that chain locks are better at home because more can be done with them. These might be good if you lock your bike in a permanent place every day, for example at the train station, if you are a commuter, for example if you have a bike rack in your office or at work. You can leave this outside, as it is corrosion-resistant and generally does not prevent such a lock.
And you might also notice something special about this lock, the granite, has a square profile, the square profile makes it extremely cut-resistant because you have to cut through both sides, you can't just cut one and then turn freely. That said, if you cut through something that thick, you're a bit of a hero because that's an insanely strong type of lock. But D-locks come in much smaller sizes like this one.
The good thing about smaller sizes is that they are very portable. This actually has a belt clip. It's from Hiplok, a company that specializes in portable locks, so it's a pretty cool concept.
This is also a highly secure lock. It's rated Sold Secure Gold, which is basically the highest rating you can get on a lock. A very safe shack, it's nice and thick.
And to some extent a smaller shackle like this, although more difficult to use on a bike depending on where you lock your bike, is actually more resistant to many of the methods that thieves might use to cut in. Little bottle lifters that go apart in the cam locks, you won't really get one in a lock like this. Provided you can use it on your bike, and wherever you lock your bike, it might be a good idea for you.
So you can get some compact other options even with new locks. This one from Kryptonite, for example, also has an extension. So it just shows that you can use this in a slightly different way, even though it's pretty small.
So it has the advantage of a larger lock in a smaller, more compact size. You also get some options that come with cable extensions. It's a fantastic idea.
In an ideal world you want to attach your mainframe to the object and preferably if you can connect your wheels in any way you don't have to remove them from the bike. So basically, you can increase the protection you have by locking more of your bike. Here we have some solutions for those who travel light and basically want a compact setup.
All locks are available in different standards. So this is actually pretty easy. Very light, you can put it in your back, even your pocket, and it gives you pretty good security.
But they also do incredibly heavy-duty versions of the same thing that are very strong, very effective and because of their shapes you are not limited to where you can lock a bike, which of course we will get into later in the article and that is actually very important. You need to know a lock's capabilities, lighter options here too, before we move on to chain locks. You should definitely not use something like this alone.
These can be easily torn. They are ideal for use e.g.
B. on the bike rack of your carto make sure that your bike is attached to it. These special cable ties are essentially metal cable ties.
I actually carry a few of these all the time, just in my bag, on my daily work, because they can be very useful for those little coffee breaks in places where you can see your bike, ch your bike, you might be looking for throw away a second. But never use a light lock like this or even this small combination lock here from ABUS, don't use that as an alternative to a really secure lock. These are just a little extra to take with you while riding, just as a little deterrent, but deterrence is key to that.
Now of course there are chain locks. Now these things weigh a ton. They are so strong, they are made of hardened steel, they have burglar-proof locking mechanisms, they are acid-proof, they are almost everything resistant.
But the penalty for wearing a lock like this is that they weigh a ton. Even in a backpack jerk they swing around all over the place so you need to think carefully about where to use them. That's why I recommend chain locks for home use or maybe more permanent like you would with something like the heavier D-locks.
But there is half a house. Now Hiplok makes chain locks that you can actually wear like a belt. Hem in various ratings.
This is a lighter version, this corresponds to Sold Secure Silver. But they also have a heavy finish, like a gold standard. This is a very heavy part of the kit, but the locking mechanism itself can actually be worn like a belt buckle and actually clip this thing around your waist.
It has reflective detailing so you can ride your bike around your waist with it and admittedly it's a heavy lock but once it's at your waist it's surprisingly handy knowing that you have a sturdy chain is great and you are also not restricted in where you use them. So if you lock your bike in different locations, a chain lock might be a good option for you. What protection you have in terms of a lock, where you want to lock your bike is just as important.
For example, if you come down a little alley here now, you might think that such a place is just fine. Here is a nice, secure railing to lock your bike on. One problem with this is that it's off the beaten path so this would give any casual thief a chance to work on your lock.
If you have a good quality lock they are going to use angle grinders, anything it makes a little bit of noise. So if you make it easier for them by not being in public, that's not a good look. So let's look at some other examples of places to avoid bike loops here a lot of people use this place to lock a bike and you might think that it is actually a really good place to lock a bike.
But you are completely wrong. This is actually a really bad place to lock a bike and one reason why, there are so many bikes here, it's a really easy place for a casual thief to stop by and try their hand at your bike and just fit in with the action. The latest thing we hear at GMBN and GMBN Techis is that thieves would take the place would be delivery drivers, so they have a large delivery bag and they get to places like this, they stoop to simulate unlocking a bike, but they do actually try bolt cutters or whatever they have and then just ride off on said bike.
As I said before, openness is the best policy. That is exactly what thieves do. Again, to highlight other areas that are questionable to lock up your bike, the train station is a great example.
Sometimes you are forced to. If you need to lock your bike near a train station, one of those crowds is make sure it's near CCTV where it can be seen. Basically, you really want every opportunistic thief to have the slightest chance of working on your bike, not your bike.
That's the name of the game. When locking bicycles in city centers, there is one last thing to keep in mind: lock your bike when you are locking it up for an evening, e.g., near anywhere that has noisy night life.
Now we've all seen the bikes. At some point they were locked up and trampled, the bikes bent, that's because they are unfortunately in a bad place. It's not the owner's fault, it's the nightlife and the scuffle and all that sensible stuff where you lock your bike.
Now that I am, this is actually a pretty good place. So you have nice, solid handrails, which means that there are several points where you can lock your bike. You can get it nice and close by lifting the latch over the railing.
It's right off a main road so there is constant traffic which will put a thief off as you can probably see behind me, lots of people walking around good contenders for locking a bike. Let's take a quick look at the options and the styles and ways you would complete a bike. And I'll use this as a good example.
Wherever you lock your bike there are plenty of options with the locks you choose and how you can use them. Nice safe railing, I have the D-lock goes around the railing, is looped around the rear wheel in the rear of the bike. That is the key as it cannot be removed from the bike.
I also have an extra security cable, this is a Kryptonite cable, I looped that around the fork and front wheel, back on itself and onto the lock. So the bike is really pretty safe at this point. I have a handlebar that only rests on the top so that it sits securely.
Hopefully nobody will interfere with that. If you don't have an extension cord with you now, but you have such a nice, big, long lock, I'll show you a cool little trick that I like to use just to add an extra layer of security. This doesn't always work now and you can annoy people if you do this in certain places, but this railing works quite well for it.
The bike is over the railings, so it basically hangs about the height of a car over a street and uses a lock to secure it in it at the same time just like you would on the sidewalk side. But the fact that the bike is on the other side of the railing makes it a lot harder to work on. If it's hard to work on, it will take time to steal the bike, and the chance is far less likely to be worked on.
So it's a nice little hack that I use quite a lot. Now a bike loop like this is built specifically to lock a bike and this is actually in a perfect place. It's a pretty busy area, there's lots of public lots of seating everywhere, lots of people enjoying coffee and sandwiches and the like.
So it's really a bad place for a thief to spend a lot of time working on the bike. He's seen or she's seen stealing the bike. So this is a great place.
But there are a few things to keep in mind. Obviously you have your lock, so a smaller lock like this one will do the job perfectly. You need to make sure that you drive your drive so that it doesn't accidentally slip and remove your paintwork.
Now I like to put mine on the crank; J for example when I lift mine in the back of here it actually carries the weight of the bike on the pedal and crank and I can put the lock around it and hold it to the post so it's pretty much a secure bike will still be vulnerable. It is up to you whether you want to risk this or if you want to connect it to the bike with an extension lock, when you get to such a post and the only space available is the other side of an already existing one? Look at the style of the bike. If it's an old clunk like this, see how it's locked and how it's treated.
Are you likely to let your bike slip? Take good care of yours or not when they unlock yours? It's definitely worth considering. On the other hand, I wouldn't find the bike too bad. It's a trek by the looks of it, it has a Kryptonite lock and it has an extension cord, which suggests that the owner of this bike is taking care of their bike and hey hopefully could take care of yours.
So, just take this into account when actually including yours, but the same rules apply. Go for the maximum security you can. In that case, I could use the Hiplok with no problem.
I could use the Kryptonite D lock, I could use the whole pig and use that crazy ABUS lock, but that's a heavier thing to lug around. You have to have what suits you. (Bike wheels purr) Well, something I haven't touched too far in this article is the way thieves pick locks.
There are several ways that Gold Secure are fairly secure. At least to the point where you can get your bike away quickly, this is a job that takes a bit of your time. The next is that you can freeze them and smash them with a hammer, but a really tough job of Fetter In The Castle will quite withstand that.
Which leaves three other options: a bottle lifter, a bottle lifter is only used in a type of D-lock, in this case you couldn't get one in there because that's a compact lock, so the compact lock with the extension is a great idea for urban Environments. The bigger a U-Lock or D-Lock, the more problems you could have with this type of attack. The others are bolt cutters of course, bolt cutters are not going to get anywhere near anything like that.
You are going to need a massive and a huge guy to actually cut this through. Bolt cutters will really only do cables. Although they do, as you've seen before, make a cord look like a bit of butter, really.
So be careful when using something like this. The last guy is going to be an angle grinder attack of course Buy It. So, doing it on the top tube there, that's not a good place for that.
So if you were going to use something like a heavy duty chain, make sure the chain is nowhere near the ground. You want it to be as high as possible. When she's on the floor she can work on it using large cutters and croppers.
You have to use a lot of leverage, sometimes you have one arm on the floor and the other arm is pushing on it. So only consider where the lock is when you actually lock it on your bike. (quirky music) You probably noticed that I don't have a lock on my bike, but I just have a sassy coffee while I'm riding and have my Garmin bike alarm on and the cool thing about it is that if someone is on the bike fiddled around, hopefully the alarm goes off and stops me.
Chris! It's not even an e-bike, buddy. Well, that's pretty effective. I just turn it off in the app.
Here and there you just have to stop and take a risk. So I turned my bike upside down and turned it into Ha rd Gear, basically what happens when someone gets on the bike and starts cycling is it-Chris! What-that happens what are you doing mate? It is an e-bike. Bring it back.
Those EMBN guys, they're just desperately looking for a real mountain bike what can I say? (Bike wheels buzz) So the absolute last resort, if you want that sassy coffee stop, I actually used my helmet as a little lock ready, I just put it around my back wheels, if someone moves it it slips and they don't get very far - Ugh! So unfair, God, I just want one of those bikes without a motor or a battery! - Just go back to EMBN, go on! And let that be a lesson to you. But seriously, don't use any of it. Leave yourself not on these things.
What you really need is a good, solid lock and lock your bike properly. Well, I've just proven that wherever you lock your bike is not invincible, but you can minimize the risks by using a really good selection of locks so it goes and choosing where you lock your bike. Hopefully this has been helpful to you.
For a few more articles in the same vein, if you want to see how to install a ground anchor that I think is absolutely essential for you, click up there for all the possible safety tips you can think of. CCTV, insurance, all that stuff. Hopefully you found this article entertaining.
At least hopefully some good information for you. So, give us a thumbs up and click the subscribe button and of course the little notification bell so that you get a notification every time we upload a article. Right, I'm going to work.
See you later. (Beep) So I turned my bike upside down, turned it into a gear, so basically if someone gets on it basically all the gears will be messed up, he will not- (bike wheels whir) Chris! Chris! - Ugh, so unfair, Doddy! - It's not even an e-bike, buddy! (Angry grunt) (laughs)
Is storing a bike outside bad?
A bike kept outside will rust given enough time, its gears, etc. will also not like being wet all the time. Just as importantly, it is more likely to get stolen if it is just left outside, and I would always rather get on a dry bike than a wet/cold bike.
Is rain bad for your bike?
Riding in the rain is more dangerous than riding in dry conditions for an obvious reason: slippery when wet. The road itself is slicker. Painted surfaces and metal road obstacles are like ice. It takes longer to stop and it's easier to slide out, so you need to brake earlier and lighter, especially on wet descents.1 сент. 2020 г.
Is it OK to leave a bike outside in the rain?
You can absolutely leave your bike out in the rain, but you need to be careful about it. Not every accessory can take the water, and you'll need to do regular maintenance if you want your bike to stay in top shape.
Can you leave an electric bike outside?
A: As long as you bring your battery inside, the frame of your electric bike can be stored in a basement or shed. Electric bikes should not be left outdoors in the elements without some protective covering; eventually dew and moisture will get into electrical components if they are left outside.
Is it bad to wash your bike with water?
Water: When used carefully, water can be a handy tool, but be careful here. Water, especially when coming from a high-pressure hose, can cause damage to sensitive bearing systems throughout your bike. Soap / general cleaner: Use diluted dishwashing soap or preformulated bike wash cleaner for frame cleaning.
Does rain ruin your bike?
Most frames and components of modern bikes will stand up to rain pretty well, unless it's a steel frame, or has cheap steel cables (not stainless), or cheap components. If it gets wet, wipe it down good and relube/oil cables and moving parts. Many nuts and screws are not stainless or aluminum and will quickly rust.26 июн. 2008 г.
Is biking in the rain bad for your bike?
Riding in the rain is more dangerous than riding in dry conditions for an obvious reason: slippery when wet. The road itself is slicker. Painted surfaces and metal road obstacles are like ice. It takes longer to stop and it's easier to slide out, so you need to brake earlier and lighter, especially on wet descents.1 сент. 2020 г.
Why do you need a bicycle rack cover?
It is vital to shield your two-wheeler bike and other important things in the open air. Even extra so at wind winds from your driving speed. That’s what Bicycle Covers for Travel are for. Bicycle rack cover leaves you & your most costly bike at peace on a loop carrier during lengthy drives.
Which is the best bicycle cover for travel?
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How big of a bike cover do I need for RV?
If using a ‘hitch mounted bike rack’ on the back of an RV, truck or car we recommend to ‘SIZE-UP’ as bikes on a rack are positioned apart and in opposite directions – if storing 2 bikes, we recommend our ‘XXL’ size cover. Email firstname.lastname@example.org for any questions relating to your Bike Cover for Outdoor Storage (Stationary).