Bike bolts - answering the questions
What are bicycle bolts made of?
Titanium Bolts are much pricier than steel, but about 40% lighter for the weight weenies out there. Most commonly used for these high end fasteners is Grade 5 Titanium (6AL-4V), which slots in just below the steel 10.9 strength class.16 мая 2020 г.
(Collisions Echo) - We looked at the myths surrounding carbon fiber. We lifted the lid on aluminum. We have investigated whether steel is actually real; it was.
But there is still a huge void in the GCN Materials Science course. And that's titanium. For a while, in the early 90s, titanium was the next big thing.
And to be fair, it was short, but gradually it was dwarfed by carbon fiber. Even so, it still has a legion of super loyal fans, and rightly so. So if you are not on board the titanium suit yet, or perhaps more precisely military aircraft or submarine, what do you need to know? (relaxed chill music) Although it has a reputation for being the reserve of the Russian or American military, which it was in fairness, titanium is actually the ninth most abundant element in the earth's crust.
And not only can it be used to make bicycles, but it can also be found in sunscreen and paper to make it whiter. What makes paper white doesn't really help much in making bicycles, however, other than maybe drawing your first ideas on, and that's because it is titanium oxide that is used in paper, while when we make bicycles we need one Titanium alloy. The very first titanium bikes were made from pure titanium, but they were very flexible and they weren't very good.
And it wasn't until a titanium alloy called 3AL / 2.5V became that that changed after 3% aluminum and 2.5% vanadium were mixed.
The other popular titanium alloy for bicycles is 6AL / 4V. Both have a very high Young's modulus, which is a measure of the stiffness of the material, so they have a gPA of around 110 as opposed to 6061 aluminum which has a GPa of around 69. And they also have a much higher yield strength, so that's where a material won't return to its original position when tension is removed.
So six-four titanium has a MPa of 1000 while 6061 aluminum only has a MPa of 270. This means that the material does not deform, bend or kink in the event of a crash. Three two-five actually has a lower yield strength than six-four titanium, but that's one of the reasons it's used almost exclusively in bicycle manufacturing because Six-Four titanium is incredibly difficult to machine.
It's more brittle and less ductile, so it's incredibly difficult to shape it into simple shapes such as pipes, to start with, in fact, most six to four titanium pipes are rolled from sheet metal and then welded, while three to 2.5 tend to be are seamless. This actually results in a more consistent overall pipe and is therefore better from a quality control point of view.
In other words, while Six-Four-Titanium's material properties might look better on paper, it won't necessarily make a better bike. Titanium is known to be super light, but actually as a material it's 60% denser than aluminum, given what we've just heard about the other material properties, you can still see why titanium frames tend to be a bit lighter than aluminum frames. So the best examples would be around 1000 grams for a titanium frame and around 1100 grams for aluminum.
So 100 grams in there. And the reason the difference is actually still quite small is probably because of how much easier it is to machine and manipulate aluminum, and we'll get to that a little later. And we have to keep that in mind.
Because of this additional density, super-light titanium frames also have extremely thin-walled tubes. And if we compare it to steel, titanium is just as strong, but 45% less dense. That explains why titanium frames are significantly lighter than steel.
The toughness in relation to the material properties makes processing titanium very difficult, as we have already mentioned. Fortunately, however, many of these difficulties are resolved by the pipe manufacturers themselves. One of those things is that internally butted tubes cannot be safely made from titanium.
Basically, there is a risk that titanium can be overloaded, which would then lead to a weakness in the material. On the other hand, you can bump the pipes on the outside, so better off! If a mandrel is machined in the pipe, titanium is scraped off from the outside. But that depends primarily on the straightness of the pipe, because any imperfections would then also be reflected in the wall thicknesses.
So probably that's why this bike behind me (tap frame) is made of titanium tubes with a straight diameter. Titanium is also slightly more difficult to weld than steel or aluminum, and that's because at higher temperatures it reacts to oxygen in the absence of this gas. To be fair, all metals must be welded in an inert gas environment, but titanium is especially delicate.
To put it in context, if you are welding steel, an acceptable purge, so called, needs to be around 1000 parts per million of oxygen, while for titanium it is only 10 parts per million. So this is a bit of a challenge for a welder, and if oxygen gets into the weld, the titanium will oxidize if you stick to f. remember rome above in the article, is a very white, almost worthless white powder.
The technique then consists in welding in an inert argon atmosphere, so basically you pass argon gas into the pipes and then also externally into the weld, but then this ensures that everything is nice and strong. The last thing that Titan can make a bit difficult is work. You see, we mentioned earlier that aluminum can be made and machined into all sorts of intricate shapes, but titanium can even bend a simple S-bend chainstay, for example, extreme care must be taken not to overwork the material, which then can cause it to become brittle and thus weak.
To avoid this, the titanium must be annealed, heated there, and then allowed to cool slowly between each incremental step in the process. It's quite time consuming, labor intensive, and it's another reason titanium bikes are quite expensive. Is it expensive? Well compared to aluminum bicycles.
But it's probably bly on a part made with custom steel, and significantly cheaper, it has to be said, than high quality carbon fiber. It's a boutique material, and yes, there are boutique costs as well. So the raw material is somewhere between 10 and 12 US dollars per kilo.
Finished pipes cost between $ 100 and $ 120 per kilo. But that makes it a bit more than standard steel and on par with stainless steel. But dare I say it, and because it might not be quite as fashionable right now, there are some relative bargains to be found in the cycling world.
And to be fair, we've given you an incredible amount of information so far, but we still don't fully understand why Titan has such a loyal following, and frankly, it can be so great. You can get a custom-made titanium frame really easily, and it will be considerably lighter than an equivalent custom-made steel frame, around 400 grams lighter. I would guess an average custom-made steel frame weighs around 1,600 grams; Titanium could be around 1200 grams.
Which is pretty important if you want to build a super light road bike; yes titanium is reactive, but your frame won't corrode, not like steel, not like aluminum; it will take. And so the Ti-Bike is the guardian for many people. Beauty is very much in the eye of the beholder, but I think there is undeniably something special about titanium.
I mean look at the raw finish; It's as if it's glowing. Ah, the ride quality, even more difficult to determine than the aesthetics. Traditionally, titanium today has a driving experience like no other.
But the boundaries between the materials are blurring; engineering brings things to new places. So steel can now be as stiff as aluminum; aluminum can now be as forgiving as carbon fiber. But titanium has traditionally always been about zing; I used to describe it as like a great titanium frame trying to bounce forward and on every bump or ripple momentum to gain momentum the road.
And that sounds pretty amazing in my opinion. Unfortunately, I've literally never really spent any time on a titanium bike. So I hope to find a remedy sometime soon.
Well there is your Titanium 101. Hopefully you can now add it as a material something like steel, aluminum and carbon fiber. Please give this article a big thumbs up.
If nothing else, you've got yourself some biking in the last few minutes. And if you want to see any of these articles update your knowledge of the other materials, why not check out the one about aluminum down there.
What size are bicycle bottle cage bolts?
The holes are usually sized and threaded to accept an M5 x 0.8 bolt, which means 5 mm in diameter and threads 0.8 mm apart (pitch).
(screeching highs) - If you've recently bought or purchased a new bike, one of the first upgrades you might consider adding a bottle cage because then you can ride a little farther a little more comfortably than you will not dehydrated, in this article we are going to show you some step-by-step instructions to follow and make it really easy. (Relaxing Hip-Hop) To Mount A New Bottle Cage On Your Bike, You Just Need A Few Things. A bottle cage first, of course, but then you'll need either a three-, four-, or five-millimeter Allen key - you'll actually turn the screws there in your frame.
The screws are generally universal. This means that all screws from every bike will fit on every other bike, and in general the bottle cages will also come with these screws, in our case gold. But if there weren't any bottle cages, they're probably already on your bike, and then finally some grease I've got down here and a cleaning cloth.
Just to make sure the threads and everything else is nice and clean before installing your new bottle cage. In fact, using a proper Allen key is a lot easier than using a multitool when it comes to attaching a new bottle cage. That's because a multitool can be quite bulky as it is quite difficult to turn inside the bottle cage.
The first thing you need to find out is what size screw you currently have in your bike. I happen to know that as 5 mils. So I'll just start unscrewing these counterclockwise with my 5 mil hex wrench.
I will be careful not to lose the washers which are important to go outside of the plastic, which is what the bottle cages are often made of. After you have removed the screws from your frame, I recommend that you keep your cleaning cloth and make sure that on a new bike it is not small paint residues that have worked into the threads or other dust particles or other impurities. You want to make sure that your threads are always nice and clean.
If you've done that and rubbed the bolts, the threads of your bolts, now is a good time to coat each bolt with a little grease. When you've done all of this, you'll want to take your bottle cage out of the box on the top he came. Often it is mounted on a piece of cardboard with a few screws and a few nuts on the back.
Don't try to lose them because you might want them in the future. Pay attention to the correct orientation when assembling your new bottle cage. The smartest person I know, who was my coach for many years, once turned an aero bottle cage upside down just because he thought it was more aesthetically pleasing.
When he showed up at the training camp with it, of course we all laughed him out of the room. And he's never forgiven that either. Bottle cageThe right way up.
When it comes to attaching your new bottle cage to your bike, make sure that little washer is on the outside of the nut. As this will help clamp your bottle cage against the frame. I would always recommend putting the screw in the bottle cage first and then attaching your Allen key to the top bolt just like that.
And then simply and carefully find the threads. At this point you should really be careful not to turn the thread with too much force because if it is not properly aligned you will strip it off very easily. since there is a lot of leverage even with this little Allen key.
Actually, when it comes to making that final timing move, there is actually no need to overtighten your bottle cage if you have a torque wrench at home, about 2 millimeters is generally more than enough. There's not a lot of pressure on a bottle cage so you just want to make sure it doesn't rattle and there's no chance the bolt will come loose. And that's the number one bottle cage, I think this bike is made for adventure and could probably go with a second one.
When it comes to assembling your second bottle cage you'll find it gets a little fiddly and that's because that there isn't actually that much space in that little part of the frame triangle, and the fact of the matter is that my large Allen key struggles to make a full turn without hurting the other bottle cage the first. First, insert the screw into the bottle cage, with the washer on the outer sides so it clamps against the frame, then insert it into the bike and locate it with your fingers. Start turning the thread until you feel it caught, that too should be nice and smooth and all of the threads should have been checked to make sure they are clean.
Do the same with the lower one. Now it gets a little trickier here, because as I already mentioned, there is a lot less space when assembling the second bottle cage. But with a little patience it won't take that long.
Again, depending on the size of your screw, it can be easy to tighten it very lightly with your fingers until the threads are correct at the end, and then simply cut open to about 2 millimeters at the end with the Allen key. And there you have it, you should now be able to carry up to a gallon and a half of water with two 750 mil bottles on your bike. If you recently picked up your first bike and installed some bottle cages, leave it to us in the comments below.
For more instructional articles for beginners to advanced levels just click here below.
Are MTB stem bolts universal?
No, they're not universal.
In this article we show you how you can remove and install a threadless stem on a bicycle hi-trimmer here at Park ToolCompany. Let's talk about what a threadless stem is first, when we say threadless stem is a system through which a fork without a threaded tube extends the head tube a stem then clamps around the outside of the steer tube along with spacers if necessary Finally, an upper cap holds everything in place and acts as a headset adjuster. Many older bikes and some lower end bikes have steerer tubes that are threaded into the steerer tube and secure with an expanding wedge.
There's a separate article on how to remove and install them at the top of the screen Unthreaded stems usually have a two-three compression screw in conjunction with a compression slot to hold the stem to the steerer tube, they also have two two six screw the faceplate on and partially hook with it one side in and for bolting to the other stems in different tube and handlebar sizes It is wise to measure your components to make sure you are assembling or ordering the correct stem Here are some common handlebar diameters There are some outliers on some older bikes here are some common head tube diameters and incompatible components can pose a safety risk so always check the manufacturer for specifications and compatibility information. Washers are also available to fit a smaller diameter handlebar or a larger fork tube to a larger one n stems are also available in various lengths marked somewhere on the stem or its packaging stems can be mounted up or down to adjust the bar height without changing the space or orientation these are often referred to as positive and negative bars when making drastic changes in angle or position the length of the stem can be made changes to the housing length b required stems are usually supplied with spacers on the steerer tube these spacers are available in a variety of different thicknesses, colors and materials they allow height adjustment and also play a role in the headset setting when installing a If you want to match and write down the height of your original stem from the top of the tire to the center of the handlebars, we will come up later Typical tools for this procedure include a suitable size wrench a torque wrench or torque driver with appropriate bits of grease or threadlocker for screw assembly Compounds such as Park Tool's AC 2 4 carbon fiber handlebars and toe strap zippers or the like to secure handlebars and fork while the stem is removed this operation can be done with the bike in a work stand with the front wheel removed or on the floor it may be helpful to spread the bike for stability Start by removing your old stem while removing the screws from the front panel You hold the front panel. Once you have the faceplate removed from the handlebars it is hanging freely screws on the steerer tube a full turn is more than likely enough next we will be removing the top cap before we find out that this is currently the only remedy the fork is in front of Falling out of the bike protects when you are working on the bike in a work stand, use a different toe strap or tie a zip to hold the fork in place now loosen the top cap screw and remove the top cap You should then be able to remove the stem from the steerer tube to pull the bike to the ground and to ensure that all components are seated completely and without any gaps Configure the stem and spacers to the desired stem height if desired if the new stem has a different stacking height than the old one you have to re-adjust the spacers according to the stem or spacers should be slightly above the ob edge of the steerer tube, about three millimeters if they are flush or below the steerer tube Adjusting the headset is impossible to purchase additional or different spacers to achieve the correct height With a carbon fork, it is important that the steerer tube goes all the way through the stem, to reduce the load on the steerer tube end.
Then it is necessary to have a spacer on top of the stem. Lubricate the top cap screw, apply and mount the top cap on top the cap is responsible for adjusting the headset setting. Tighten this screw until now.
We'll fine-tune this setting towards the end of this process. When installing a carbon handlebar it is advisable to apply a mounting compound such as Park Tool's AC where the handlebar rests against the stem.This will help create the necessary friction between the bar and stem to allow rotation resist.
It also acts as a barrier between the rod and stem materials.Grease or threadlocker do not apply both to the faceplate screws Place the faceplate over the face of the rods and screw in the screws, but do not fully tighten these screws.These screws should be evenly tightened and the gap between the stem and the Faceplate should usually be even at the top and there are a couple of stems at the bottom that require one side to be fully tightened before checking with the manufacturer for more information on the other side before fully tightening the bolts over the bike and tightening the handlebar caster to your liking adjust, you should also make sure they are centered at this point.Usually bars have markings to aid in centering and rolling.
Now tighten the faceplate screws in an X pattern and pull the top cap down firmly until there is slight resistance the rods should spin freely with very little resolution.In this example, the top cap is too tight. Loosen the top cap an eighth of a turn and test again.
Next, straightening the handlebars, using a ruler against the fork legs as reference points, tightening the clamping screws, testing the headset setting by holding the front brake and the bike place your fingers back and forth on the upper bearing cover and the upper shell of the headset and feel for play, which may be noticeable as a light tapping.Eighth turn, tighten the clamping screws again and check again, continue until the play is gone. Finally tighten the clamping screws a typical torque of four to six Newton meters Thanks for watching Hundreds of more articles like this can be found on our channel here on YouTube and we are constantly working to be more so be sure to subscribe to the latest content for Park Tool and visit our website which has even more content to help you make your bike better
Are all bike bolts the same size?
The most common sizes of allen screws for bikes are 4, 5, and 6mm. There's even a common bike tool that will fit in all three. In my experience, most racks use 5mm screws, but some do use 4 or 6mm screws.
Every mountain biker should have a set of tools to perform some basic maintenance on their bike to ensure it stays on the trails. So, even at the basic level, you have to run an Allen key over the bike at home and give it a general check for safety, you can change the inner and outer shift cables just to keep your bike working in poor conditions and change a flat tire and replace the tires. And to get that job done, all you really need is a pump, some tire levers, a decent little multitool, preferably with a chain tool on it, or a separate chain tool and set of cable cutters.
However, if you're into tinkering and want to get a little more involved, here are 10 tools that will really make your life easier. First, cone wrenches. If you're doing any type of hub service on your bike, it's quite likely that you will need cone wrenches, unless you have a need , Your bike is new Remove the hub axle system from the bike.
Even if your bike doesn't have a normal cup-and-tapered bearing, you'll still need them to remove the end caps on the axle to gain access to the cartridge chambers. Cone wrenches come in a variety of sizes so it is a good idea to keep some of these in your selection; they don't cost a lot of money, but they will come in handy when you least think you will need them. The special thing about a cone wrench is the actual physical size.
They are only about 3mm thick, so you could use them for locking nuts against each other in the past, but now it's more about making wheel axles with them. So make sure to keep some of these in your toolbox of chain checkers. So your gears obviously wear out a lot as you use your bike, especially when you ride in muddy and wet conditions.
If you replace your chain more regularly than the cassette, you will often get two or three chains for one cassette. So of course that will save you a lot of money. But you need to monitor the wear and tear on your chain.
So using a chain tester, insert the two pins into the chain and look at the scale above to see how worn it is at .75 is what you are looking for and then you want to replace it. At 11 and 12 it's more like .5 So a simple device, you can get these devices that have an adjustable type of pivot pin in the end, and you can get simpler ones, but they are a really good tool.
Keep one of these in your toolbox. Next, chain pliers. So they seem to be more of a specialized tool, but actually they are very useful for simply removing the master link on a chain, just insert, pull the two links together, split the chain, why is this useful? Well, to maintain the chain yourself, to degrease, to clean and even if you only change a chain regularly when you travel many kilometers.
Of course, whenever you put a chain back together make sure you get it right with the correct connecting pin or main link; nex t up, a torx multitool. On mountain bikes, the T25 is typically used to hold your disc on the wheels. But as we've seen in more and more places on the bike, like the rear wheel or even the pivot pin that holds the brake lever on the brakes, you're seeing more and more Torx solutions.
And why is that important? Well, especially with the smaller bolts, we're talking 3mm or less. They're very easy to round off. But you get a much better buy with a torx wrench.
Of course these things are small, so having a multitool with all sizes on it is a breeze. Next, a cassette tool and chain whip. Why do you need these? Easy to remove the cassette from the bike.
So if you use those cone wrenches and the chain-related stuff you will also need these to remove the rest of your transmission. So the actual cassette tool slides into the cassette and you hold the cassette still with the chain whip and either use an adjustable tensioner or you can put it in a vise and turn the wheel against it to remove the cassette. Very useful tool, buy once, never have to buy again.
Will always be there. Just make sure you factor in the speed transmission you have, these are available with up to 12-speed or with a much wider chain for a lower range of gears. Next, a tool to remove the bottom bracket.
So removing a bottom bracket is important because that's one of the first things you do. Your bike is likely to break. Because it suffers from spin all the time, or just straight into the line of fire of the front wheel, and removing and replacing it is a simple task that you can do at home with minimal tools.You have a completely closed Style device, not the Crescent -Style, so it has a really good grip there, and it actually has a little wheel here too.
So this wheel is for use with the Shimano cranks that we have the little cap there for pre-loading. So you can just preload that and with a wind up key and you're good to go, so make sure you get the one that suits your bike and the style of the bottom bracket, you never need another one. Next one smaller tool, a valve core remover, these are really useful for the obvious replacement of the valve core, but also in a situation where you are setting up your bike tubeless it is really good to actually take the valve out and inject the solution tube in there as well.
It's a really simple little tool, valve cores do bend it from time to time, maybe you're on the trail and in a hurry with a mini pump trying to get some air back in so it's worth taking on a trail too, in addition with a couple of valves. Keep that in your toolbox at home with all your tubeless stuff. Next a compressor pump.
Gone are the days of trying to put tubeless tires on with a regular pump, or CO2 cartridges To have to waste, get one of these, this is made by Topeak but there are several options on the market etc. In principle they are all the same. So you've got a track pump built into the device, and you've got a secondary chamber that you charge by simply turning a knob or turning a dial, charge it up and you can let go of all that pressure in one fell swoop that Finds your tire and inflates it in one fell swoop.
Once you've tried one of these you will never go back. You are so good. Next up is one of my favorites, it's internal cable routing.If you've ever struggled to assemble an internal cable, be it just your seatpost dropper cable or a full aisle length housing, then you know it's one of the most frustrating tasks is when it goes wrong.
In that case, get one of these. It will make your life a lot easier. Essentially there are three cables, inner cables, that is, with different connectors at the end to secure the different types of cables. barbed, some are magnetic and some have a sheath style.
And you just chase them with this incredible power through Voller Magnet, connect them to the cable you are pulling, pull it right back through. Absolutely ingenious kit. Okay so it's not the cheapest thing in the world, but buy it once and you'll have your tool kit in your tool kit forever.
Last but not least is some kind of torque wrench. Now you don't necessarily need to have a full torque wrench and bit setup. You can get away with one of these.
This is absolutely brilliant now, it's from Park, comes with a set of bits that are kept in the handle, and has Torq settings built in. So this is what you need for your most important controls. So your handlebars, your stem, your stem clamp, your brake lever control setup.
Each of these delicate ones. Means you don't need a full setup with the Torq wrench, and it means you can make sure nothing will break anything on your bike. Really useful especially when you have a few lightweight or expensive components in there.
Hopefully some of these tools will be really useful to you, and I'd love to know what to do with ols you can't live without. Let us know in the comments below. Don't forget to click in the middle to subscribe , as there is a brand new article every day, and for articles on how to maintain the Shimano drivetrain, click here.
And to install a press-fit bottom bracket, click here. Last but not least, if you like the article, give us a thumbs up.
Are bike nuts metric?
On one bicycle, you will see both the metric and SAE system. Most threading is metric, but not all. Components will be fitted with metric fasteners using metric wrench sizing, but the chain is a one-half inch pitch. Ball bearings on a bike are inch sized, from as small as 1/16th-inch up to 5/16-inch.17 авг. 2010 г.
How do you put a water bottle cage on a bicycle without holes?
You can use hose clamps to avoid holes on bikes. I've seen is to use hose clamps to attach a bottle cage to the frame. Hose clamps are what (used to?) attach a car's radiator hose to the radiator, if you've seen that.4 мар. 2021 г.
Are all stem bolts universal?
Stem bolts are not universal for all bikes. All types of stem bolt cannot easily fit into all bikes as it varies the size of the thread. So, if you want to use stem bolts on any bike, it is required to take the proper measurement of the size of the bolts first. The stem bolts are of many sizes.
What do stem bolts do?
Stem bolts were a type of bolt used to fasten objects that was invented prior to 2153.
What size are most bike bolts?
The most common sizes of allen screws for bikes are 4, 5, and 6mm. There's even a common bike tool that will fit in all three. In my experience, most racks use 5mm screws, but some do use 4 or 6mm screws.
What size wrench do I need for bike?
If your bicycle's hubset is standard, start off by purchasing three cone wrench sizes: a 13, 15, and 17mm will do a majority of hubsets being manufactured today. If your bicycle's hubset is NOT standard purchase an entire 'set' of cone wrenches that will include every size from 13mm up to 19mm.15 мар. 2012 г.
How do I know what size my bike hub is?
Figure out the distance between the lock nuts (where the hub sits in the dropouts) - 100 or 110 mm is typical for the front. Most rear wheels are 126, 130, 135, or 142mm (for thru-axles). This is commonly referred to as the OLD (over locknut dimension). Take that number and divide by 2.1 июл. 2020 г.
What do you need to know about bicycle bolts?
1. Brake Bolt 2. Brake Cables 3. Brake-Pad Bolt 4. Faceplate 5. Top Cap 6. Stem 7. Shift/Brake Lever 8. Saddle Clamp 9. Seat Binder 10. Chainring 11. Crankarm Fasteners: Fixing bolts (number and sizes vary).
Which is the best brand for motorcycle bolts?
Pro-Bolt Fasteners – Supreme Quality you can Trust We are the leading supplier of high quality nuts, bolts, washers and motorcycle accessories and bolt kits. Pro-Bolt has supplied the motorcycle industry for 20 years including Racing Teams in MotoGP, Moto2, Moto3, World Superbikes, British Superbikes.
What kind of bolts do pro bolt use?
Our products include a huge range of bolt kits in Aluminium, Stainless Steel & Titanium – our bolts are aimed at the Motorsport Industry, we have flanged hex heads bolts, pre-drilled race spec, tapered socket cap, dome head, countersunk & bodywork bolts.