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Cannondale scapel review - innovative solutions

How much does a Cannondale Scalpel weigh?

1,910g





These are carbohydrates. (laughs) - Oh, are there any carbohydrates? - Like gummy bears. - oh What do you think that was? Air? (intense music) (yelling) Hey, my name is Sarah Moore and we are here in my backyard in Squamish, British Columbia.

And we're filming the pink bike cross-country field test. And with me here now is the Cannondale Scalpel. With a hundred millimeters of rear suspension travel and a hundred millimeters of suspension fork.

The Cannondale Scalpel is unmistakably a cross country bike. All bikes except the small size come with 29 '' wheels, and then the small size comes with 27 and let's take a closer look at the Cannondale Scalpel frame we have here. For this version, the Cannondale design team developed their own stash tool system in a frame that is easy to pull out.



And then there's a Dyna-Plug, an ultra-light tire plug that also fits right into the stash kit. And there is also a CO2 that fits right there. And if all of this is too hard for you, there's also an empty plate to put on instead, there's a tube in the tube, cable routing through the entire bike to make it quieter and easier to work with, hydration is key and there are two places for water bottles on the inside of the Cannondale Scalpel frame.

With five seven I ride the size medium, which has a reach of 435 millimeters. That is paired with a 60-millimeter stem, and the wheelbase is 1,151 millimeters long. With a head tube angle of 68 degrees.

The new scalpel is one and a half degrees flatter than the previous generation. The scalpel has a 74 and 74 one-half degree seat tube angle, which is in line with the other bikes in this category. And it has 436 millimeters of chainstays across all sizes.



And now we're diving into the suspension. Basically, Cannondale wanted to use a Horse Link suspension, but they didn't want all of the pivots and hardware and extra weight that comes with this design. Instead, that section of carbon bends and acts like a pivot, which Cannondale says they saved about 200 grams.

With this suspension design, Cannondale was able to keep the frame weight down. They claim a Medium size weighs 1,910 grams. And the size medium we ride is tubeless with control tires, no pedals and we removed the sash tool.

Weighs just under 22 pounds. Our test bike is equipped with a Fox float DPS rear shock absorber and a hundred millimeter left Ocho fork, making it one of the more polarizing bikes here. Everything on all models of this bike is made of carbon.



Prices start at $ 4,500 and go up to $ 12,000. The model we are testing is the Cannondale Scalpel high Mod, Ultimate. It costs $ 12,000 and for that amount you get Strands of Eagle Axs, MV Wheels, and you get Level Ultimate Brakes.

That's enough about the spec. Let's talk about how $ 12,000 feels like on the trail (music) - All right. Let's talk about how the new Scalpel behaves on the trail.

But first we have to take care of the setup. We have Schwalbe Control tires, of course, as with all bikes. But Sarah, tell me about the suspension - I set it up based on Cannondale's recommendations, super easy.

There is a little laid paper at the front and back, and from there it went on. - Speaking of the front of the bike. Tell me about this left-handed man.

Actually, wait, don't tell me about left-handed people, all I want to know is what you first thought when you saw it.- Yes, I know it has a long history, proven and true, but when you get the bike See for the first time you think, 'Oh, how will it feel when I get on the bike? Trace? ”Right? - Yes - will I feel wrong? So - when people think of Cannondale, they often think of left-handed, - Absolutely. - But there's a bigger picture than that.

And that's what we're going to talk about. Let's climb first. (quiet music) - Still, you know, a little flatter head tube angle, the bike feels super responsive, super easy to like the wind through the corners.

You don't have to think long. And when you look at the technique of climbing, that traction is such a big part of it, you know - Right.- What makes a technical climb easier or more difficult.

And the Cannondale has amazing traction on the climbs - let's compare it to the Lux, the Canyon Luxe, in this regard. What do you think? - Yeah, it's really interesting because I mean this is obviously a brand new bike. It just came out.

It hardly feels like driving uphill, something like a fire road - you don't like jumping forward that fast, right. - Yeah, it doesn't jump forward. It doesn't have that, you know, harsh feeling that you child expect from a cross country bike.

Like you'd almost be expected to knock you up on the climbs, but because of that, yeah, it doesn't feel like you're bouncing off the line that much. So you can just say sit down and, you know, shift into a lower gear, save a little energy. It might not feel as efficient, but it is efficient and it feels easier to climb and get through tactical sections.

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To me it looked like on the Canyon or any other bike you looked almost like you were going to say, 'Oh, I'm a brand - you have to do it.' You know? You are one of those who achieve. - Yes, you know.

That bike, I would watch you, and you are, you sit and you pedal and you just ride those things, Mwa. - Yes / Yes. Like your position.

You're kind of a bit more at the top of the bike and it doesn't feel like you have it all and hope the best that you will get through it. Correct? Yeah, you could just kind of suck it up - suck it up the way. - Let's also remember that all bikes have exactly the same tires, with exactly the same tire pressure.

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So we eliminate this variable there, i.e. a more forgiving suspension that delivers a good portion of traction despite good traction for a cross-country racing bike.

And that certainly helps with technical climbing. Isn't it? - Yes. Super important. (quiet music) Yeah, so let's start by talking about driveability and geometry.

There's a lot more room for error with this bike. It doesn't feel like going over the handlebars at every other corner, and-- You felt more comfortable. You look better, that's for sure - Yes.

Definitely feels a lot more comfortable on the descent - why do you think it's like a roody section and maybe it gets a little looser on a bike like the Cannondale you feel like you're going to save it or you feel like it You are not worried at all. - Yes. I think it's really about where you are above the bike.

On this bike it feels like you're a little more relaxed. It's two degrees less steep than Canyon Lux is - that's a big deal - yes it makes a big difference. So you really feel like you are in a better position while still being able to maintain traction on the front wheel - that front axle is further out in front of you.

You don't feel like you're walking out the front door- yeah, exactly. - Against your will. - And even, you know, without dropper posts, as if you just feel in a good position - It sounds like this - almost has a more trail bike feeling, and I know that in Canada right.

Now someone is saying, 'Oh, you know, this is our racing bike'- yes. It is definitely, you are not afraid when you are on your way down. It just has a little more room for air. - What about the other end of the trip.

If it's so forgiving. Did you feel like it was you? to sit too much in this blow or - not- I mean, there are no hard punches. I never had the feeling, you know, I was really deep in the journey.

Yes. It was just a convenient way to use suspension travel efficiently and well. When we talk about suspension, there's no way we can't talk about that left fork strut thing.

So it looks strange, Sarah. I know you had some reservations at first, but you've been driving this thing for weeks. What is the story? How does it work? - It feels great. - Correct? It feels like a fork. - It feels a lot like a fork.

Yes - So if you didn't look down, would you know it wasn't a Fox or RockShox fork? - You would have no idea - I drove the left hander too. And I wrote the new CIDs , I wrote 32s and 34s and the left strut thing. It's pretty rigid.

This is not a problem. I'd say it's probably one of the stiffest Xc forks out there. Yes.

It feels-- Great, doesn't it? - Like, for example, like you have no idea that you don't have a normal fork there. - Exactly. In your opinion, how important is the stiffness of the fork for handling the bike? You know, we keep saying that this is probably the stiffest cross country fork on the market and it certainly helps the bike go faster on rough terrain. - Yes.

It definitely feels like you have more control on the descents. You know you don't feel thin at all. You know, I would say for high-speed things, you notice that you are standing a little higher above the motorcycle.

It doesn't. Obviously not because of the fork, but in general, - The geometry.- Because of the geometry, you feel a bit elevated, so - maybe you should lower the seat, Sarah.- Yes. - It's really high. - Mainly because it doesn't have a dropper. (upbeat music) - Cross country racing bikes are about going against the clock.

We had our own watch. Sarah, how did the new scalpel fare in our timelapse? - Yes. It had the fastest time on the overall lap and on the climb and then actually connected to the Cannon Lux, which has a dropper post on the descent.

So kind of an interesting comparison - yes. Okay, of course we also had the efficiency test which placed it in midfield, it was 10 seconds behind the winner (cheeky music) Sarah, how much did this bike cost? - It costs $ 12,000 - Is there anything else to do? Upgrade? - No, how it has MV wheels, Depost, - Right handlebar, how super light. - Light, fast stuff.

Any problems with that? - No. None at all. - It worked. - So you had a bit of a gearbox there too.

What do you think? - I love the axis. I mean, it's so good when you work hard and you can just go. Bloop, bloo, bloo.- I want to talk about the cassette on the back, this is the new wide-range cassette with the 52-tooth cod.

What do you think? - I would say cross country might not be the best place for those 52 teeth. Just because your relationship is like that, the drop is just so big. As if you were working really hard and then you want to make one gear easier and suddenly you just spin.- On the other hand, this is a racing bike.

Shouldn't you be in this 10-tooth cog all the time.- Well clear. - Okay.

Now let's get to the pros and cons. (happy music) Okay. On advantages and disadvantages.

Sarah, tell people what you like. - Well, it's not a trail bike, but it feels a lot more comfortable, a lot more control than many other cross country bikes, hard suspension feel. So you can drive like a really long racer or full day intervals or whatever you want to do. - stage races. - Yeah, and you wouldn't just get beaten up.

So it's much smoother and more forgiving. I also really liked the Prologo saddle that comes on this bike. - It looks strange. - Feels great.

It doesn't matter what it looks like. You're sitting on it anyway. (happy music) - Okay, cons next.

Sarah. Tell people what they didn't like. - Well, I've never gotten on so well with my bike for cornering.

So that was something that I think could be improved, you know, a slightly lower, longer bike. If you really like that, you know, super efficient feel on the climbs then this bike doesn't have that. So just hit the little lockout button and you can fix this bug - so if you want to turn off your suspension, she says, just hit the lockout lever.

Let's go - yes. (cheeky music) - We should probably be talking about who this bike is best for, right? - Yeah. I mean, this is going to be a modern day cross country racer.

If you ride more technical routes it will be a great bike for you. - What about stage races? Such things - yes. I mean, because the bike is so forgiving, you won't get hit as much in a longer stage race.

So if you're doing multi-day races in a row or just doing four hour racing, marathon racing like this one would be a great bike to do things like that. And there you have it. That's the Cannondale scalpel, stay tuned for more articles from our cross-country field test as well as a round table where we compare all of them. (Happy music)

What is the best Cannondale mountain bike?

To ensure the Scalpel is part of the conversation, it comes with an impressive 1,910g claimed weight. That's for a Medium frame including the rear shock, thru-axle, hanger, protection and cable ports.21 мая 2020 г.

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How much do Cannondale mountain bikes weigh?

The New Habit Carbon 3 Is Cannondale's Best Mountain Bike Ever
  • Price: ,000.
  • Weight: 30.7 lb. ( Medium)
  • Travel: 130mm.
  • Fork Travel: 130mm.
  • Wheel Size: 29.
  • Drivetrain: SRAM GX Eagle 1x12.
  • The right bike for: Trail rider looking for a livelier bike for twisty terrain.
31 окт. 2018 г.

Welcome to Ask GMBN Tech. Of course, this is the weekly Q-and-A show. You ask the questions and we try to give you the right answers.

Send your questions to the email address at the bottom of the screen, or join these comments. Don't forget to use the hashtag #AskGMBNTech. Okay, Servius asks if my bike has a 130 million suspension fork and a Has 120 millimeter suspension on the rear wheel, is that enough for some easy blue downhill trails, mainly curves? and a few small jumps? I plan to visit a resort in the summer and would love to go to the bike park but I'm afraid I'll hit rock bottom as I don't travel a lot, absolutely fine.

Even a hardtail will be fine. It'll be less comfortable, of course, but you don't have to worry about things like that, especially on the blues, greens, and trails like that.It's probably fine as long as you don't get too close to some of the bigger features.

Now don't worry about your suspension bottoming out. That's a good sign that you should, in fact, be using all of your suspension. In general, you should actually crank your suspension a few times on an average ride.

That means you are using full suspension. It is properly adjusted for your weight and you are getting what the suspension should do. If not, then you may need to take a look at how to easily adjust your suspension.

If you're not sure how to adjust your fork or damper, I'll link two articles under this one. So hopefully if you look into the description below it should walk you through the basics of what you need to understand there. But don't worry about the bike.

I think the bike will be absolutely fine, your bike is set up for you, it won't be a problem. Now there is something you can do just to increase your comfort and also make the bike feel like it has a little more travel. You will have more grip.

It will make the bike feel more comfortable, more stable. And at the end of the day, it will basically be a nicer experience for you. So this is definitely a cheaper and probably better option than changing bikes or other things to look at.

Okay, now question from Crank One Open. Why does my non-drive side crank keep loosening? Is it because my lead foot is on the non-drive side? Should I learn to bunny hop with the drive side in the guide? If I can see the torque specifications on the. go beyond the crank arm, the cranks grind while turning.

Hm, alright. So, if your crank is properly installed and properly tightened, it shouldn't come loose. Assuming the interface between the axle and the end of the crank isn't, it's rounded, it's not damaged in any way, it fits snugly, and it sits right there.

Well the fact that you say that if you overtighten it from the recommended torque setting it will be tightening to me it sounds like the bearings are preloaded too much. You're squeezing the bearings, in which case your bottom bracket may not be properly installed in your frame, and it sounds like if you have the bottom bracket to screw in, you need one of those little spacers called the 2 1/2 mill spacers I don't know your details and your particular bike. It could be one on the drive side or one on the non-drive side, but I think that's probably the solution to putting your cranks on.

You should bottom completely out when you tighten this thing and you should be able to tighten it insanely. Really, the torque on a crank is very tight and you should be able to turn it freely; I would check that first. It sounds like this is your problem.

It has nothing to do with having your left foot in front, right foot in front or anything. If your crank is not installed correctly, this is a symptom of this. Good luck, I hope you didn't damage it.

All right, by Christopher Grimmer next. Hey Doddy, I removed the outer shell of my RockShox Monarch Plus shoe to see the condition and some oil was dripping. Is that normal? I've seen a lot of your articles showing how to remove the sleeve, make volume spacers, etc. mentioned in the article.

Thanks. Assuming you're the guy where you slide this sleeve off to expose the volume spacers, the red spacers, then no, it's absolutely fine. The oil that will be there is just pure lubricating oil in order for this sleeve to slide over it.

So, as long as it's a few drops, you don't have to worry. When oil is literally dripping out non-stop, it sounds like the damper actually leaked inside, and all that will be is like a leaky o-ring or something like that, and it might just require maintenance . The same is true if you actually unscrew the whole air can and some oil drips out.

This is just lube oil, it goes on the shaft when you assemble the damper, and again no need to worry replace that. You can get some oil. You can get Fox Floating Liquid.

There are quite a few other similar oils available for this purpose. I wouldn't worry. To me it just sounds like lube oil, not damper oil.

Ooh, that's good. So from Ben Patt43. Ask GMBN Tech, do you ever think mountain bikes will take over the floating disc brakes? They've been a lot of dirt bikes.

Yep, been there, doing that. So on the screen. Right now it's the Mountain Cycle San Andreas.

So that goes back, I think, to 1991. So this bike was so many firsts. It was one of the first full suspension bicycles.

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It was one of the first bicycles to have an inverted fork, and it was an inverted single crown fork. And it was also one of the first bikes with disc brakes. And it wasn't just disc brakes, they were floating discs, disc brakes. 230mm rotors, massive, even bigger than what we have by today's standards, they were also hydraulic Ca hydraulic lipers, and they were cable operated.

So this bike was way ahead of its time. Well the thing about floating discs, they're great, they allow for thermal expansion and stuff like that, but proper floating discs are they are they are loud, they are annoying. You notice something like that on a bike.

You will never notice that on something with an engine. This might sound a little trivial now, but it actually makes a huge difference, and of course the manufacture of these disks, you can see how heavy the disk rotors are that are on the screen. They are huge and weigh a lot.

Modern disc rotors don't have to be, but there are some floating discs out there. Now Hope has experimented with floating discs and double double disc discs over the years to further dissipate heat.SRAM brakes do now, and they essentially have an aluminum spider riveted to a steel brake unit.

So here's one of the Hope brakes on Scr een, and here's one of the SRAM models on screen, so you can see the similarities, what you're looking for, and the idea is that the aluminum spiders take the heat from that braking surface and the rivets allow some sort of expansion, and basically some movement of the disc rotor itself. But also keep in mind that mountain bike discs don't get nearly as hot as dirt bikes or motocross bikes. But they have been experimented with.

They Are there, they float around. Sorry for the pun, but not always necessary. Okay, now from Ryan Stevens.

Doddy, I'm looking at a new enduro or trail bike. My budget can't go to a top spec carbon -Bike coming. Do you think it's better to have a top spec aluminum suspension bike over a lower spec bike with a carbon frame? Thanks, I really enjoyed the show.

Well, thanks for the props on that I would choose the better equipped aluminum bike. Now carbon wheels look fantastic and have nice handling characteristics, but there is nothing wrong with aluminum either. Just because your friends might have carbon or you see a lot of fancy carbon bikes out there doesn't make you feel tempted to alloy; I have an aluminum bike, and I absolutely love it.

Well that means if you want a carbon frame, if that's what you want, and you want to ride that frame and upgrade it in time, then you need to take into account what's on that bike. Now if you make the choice for bicycles, let's assume you have a budget of 4,000 for the bicycle. So they are looking for a good quality alloy or a cheaper carbon bike.

Now you have to be careful because the bait the manufacturers are using is the fact that you have a carbon frame, so in your eyes you think wow it has one Carbon frame. It gets lighter, stronger, everything else. It will look better.

Technically it will last longer. All that stuff. However, it costs the same as the alloy bike, which is much cheaper and easier to manufacture than the carbon offer, so you have to save money elsewhere.

Now with a bicycle it doesn't matter if it has a cheap gearbox. This is a consumable part of the bike. Don't rush to update it, just wear it off.

Then recycle it and upgrade it for a better one. You can start saving from the minute you buy your bike. People often ride bikes and the first thing they do is chuck on a new cassette, chain, better rear derailleur.

Do not do that. It makes no sense. It's going to wear out anyway so just use it.

The important thing are the wheels, the damper and the fork on the Everything else are things that can be easily upgraded over time, even the wheels can be upgraded, but a cheaper, heavier wheelset, A, they get weaker, B, the Hubs will wear out faster, and C, they will feel really lethargic, heavy, and the bike will not have the comfortable ride quality you would expect from it as it has an approx. has rbon frame. If you compare the same construction, value for money, with the carbon counterpart with the aluminum equivalent, you will find that the aluminum wheels probably have much lighter, stronger and better wheels.

That is not the end of the world, because wheels can of course be exchanged individually. You don't have to do this in pairs. But the damper and suspension fork are two very expensive things to upgrade as independent units.

Aluminum frames may well have a better specified shock absorber and fork, while the carbon frame, to keep that price down, gives you the higher quality frame that You are looking, it may well be you have a cheaper damper and fork. Now a lot of budget forks and bumpers are perfectly fine, but make sure the ones that are on your particular choice are the ones that you can upgrade, you can tune, you can customize them to your liking Make sure it has the rebound, the compression damping you want there, make sure if you want to do something like this you can pair volume spacers there. The same goes for the fork.

And even with a suspension fork, make sure that you can upgrade the inner workings at a later point in time, if you want. Now it's not something everyone chooses, but if you're stuck with a fork at the bottom you really can't do anything with it other than use it, sell it, buy another fork and sometimes that can be £ 1000, to stick to the front of a bike. So often you will find that an aluminum bike has a really good fork.

For that reason I would choose the aluminum alloy case here, but just keep in mind, if you want to save a bit of money on saving the rest of the components and get a really good frame, just make sure you have a few Have basics. Wheel size comparison by William Dunn. Now, I've found many new bikes that come in 29 'and 27 1/2' to have differences in travel.

For example the Nukeproof Mega has a 10 millimeter difference between the 27 1/2 and the 29'er. Why do they do that? That's a pretty good question, William. Well, there are really differences between brands because they don't always do that.

But what I can really think of is that it offers the same characteristics that the bike is supposed to have between wheel sizes. Now the Nukeproof Mega is clearly an enduro focused bike. His forte really lies in rough, fast, and downhill.

Sure, it climbs up everything like a goat, but it doesn't compare to lighter trail bikes. This bike is a beast. Now you have a little more suspension travel on the frame with the 27 1/2-inch wheel.

Now you need this travel to control the characteristics of these wheels, but also to maintain the agility of the bike. The opposite is now the case with the larger wheels. The larger wheels of the 29ers allow a bit more rollover, a bit more of a steam roller effect on bumps.

When you ride the same bike path you suddenly have a bike that feels like an absolute monster, so there are the same or very similar characteristics between the two. Surprisingly. You just wouldn't believe that this is the case for such a big bike, and that's only achieved by keeping the suspension travel small, the reckoning, that's your 160 29'er.

That has more travel than its 27 1/2-inch equivalent version, which I think has 151 millimeters of travel, but that's not always what a bike manufacturer wants their bikes to do. Often times, when they offer two wheel sizes they want the frame to be the highlight, and you choose the wheel sizes the way you want to ride this bike. Okay, so there's another weekly question-and-answer show in the bag If you have any questions or have any comments, or whatever you'd like, please feel free to join the comments below and we'll get back to you next week.

For a few more useful articles, click here for some classic workshop mistakes and click here below for some trail side hacks. As always, don't forget to subscribe to GMBN Tech. We are happy to have you here.

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Are Cannondale mountain bikes good?

Yes, Cannondale bikes are very high-quality, and they are considered to be one of the leading mountain bike manufacturers worldwide. Cannondale has won several awards for its outstanding innovation and design standards.

What is Cannondale Black Inc?

Cannondale's SuperSix EVO Black Inc. is a beastly climber and a full-octane sprinter thanks to its full Hi-Mod carbon frame and dialed-in race geometry. With luxurious ENVE carbon rims and Schwalbe ONE clincher tires, you'll accelerate fast and maintain control even in tricky conditions.

Is Cannondale better than Trek?

If you have a long torso, Cannondale's top tubes tend to run a bit longer and may fit a bit better, Jowett advises. Conversely, a short torso may match up better to a Trek. Finish and overall quality are comparable. 'Trek actually offers a better value at the lower end.

Is Cannondale better than giant?

Cannondale has a wider collection of mountain bikes on all levels compared to giant, but if you're looking to buy high-quality carbon full suspension under 5000$ giant is the brand to choose, at the same time both brands use quality parts and the latest drivetrain components for their builds.

Is 33 pounds heavy for a mountain bike?

Depends on the bike, what it's built up for, and how you like it. For an XC hardtail, 30lb is on the heavy side, but for an entry level bike might be fine. For a FS buillt for cush on rough trails, not so bad at all.15 окт. 2012 г.

Is Cannondale a quality bike?

Are Cannondale bikes good? Yes, Cannondale bikes are very good. No matter how much money you spend, you will get a carefully assembled bicycle that's built to last. Of course, more money will get you better specs, but even entry-level Cannondale models perform well if used by their target audience.11 мая 2021 г.

Why are Cannondale bikes so expensive?

They are designed to maximize performance, but it comes at a price. So to sum it up, they are so expensive because of materials, time, and labor. Different people have different definitions of expensive, but yes 00+ is expensive. So just make sure that you get a good bike, its worth it.

Is the Cannondale Scalpel se a good bike?

What the Scalpel SE desperately needs is some extra length in the frame. It also needs a steeper seat tube angle or at the very least a dropper post that can handle the bending forces without binding. On the face of it the Scalpel SE should be the most capable bike in Cannondale’s short-travel 29er range.

What's the steering angle on a Cannondale Scalpel?

Less simple was Cannondale’s new OutFront Steering Geometry. The Scalpel’s head angle is nearly 2 degrees slacker than its predecessor, but it responds as quickly. The generous 55-millimeter fork offset reins in the floppy, delayed steering that can plague slack XC bikes.

How does the dropper work on a Cannondale Scalpel?

While the own-brand 150mm dropper works, the lever is flexy and awkward to push. The slack seat angle means that the saddle extends way over the rear tyre when fully raised up, placing your weight too far back, with your hips behind the pedal axis.

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